tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-66038660527561156112024-03-21T21:56:28.014-07:00On the Boards in IranI travel to Tehran, to be part of a five-person jury adjudicating an International Competition within the 29th Fadjr Theatre Festival - Iran's largest festival of theatre. In Canada, I run Volcano - an independent theatre company. In Iran, I am a newcomer.Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-84288631314669442802011-02-27T08:10:00.003-08:002011-05-08T10:10:29.507-07:00In Defiance of Ignorance<div style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1667px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc_UErmWLULN-A27Tar4U4ZoYzkPVzOtD9FgKddWVOXIbfkhxHxl-CaacWLWFDUzewfrGDMdkyN_TNUV5Q_EPytMMSzavSV6jgQDD_h_MwiJkButYIqPCj1nll2lMtz424izx-j170uFA/s1600/IMG_1479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc_UErmWLULN-A27Tar4U4ZoYzkPVzOtD9FgKddWVOXIbfkhxHxl-CaacWLWFDUzewfrGDMdkyN_TNUV5Q_EPytMMSzavSV6jgQDD_h_MwiJkButYIqPCj1nll2lMtz424izx-j170uFA/s320/IMG_1479.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc_UErmWLULN-A27Tar4U4ZoYzkPVzOtD9FgKddWVOXIbfkhxHxl-CaacWLWFDUzewfrGDMdkyN_TNUV5Q_EPytMMSzavSV6jgQDD_h_MwiJkButYIqPCj1nll2lMtz424izx-j170uFA/s1600/IMG_1479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span></span></span>What I Didn't Blog About from Inside Iran...</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Iran. I was there for 12 days. I saw over 20 plays and one mass demonstration against the regime. I heard of another. I will bring a play back with me by a talented young writer. I met many people, and became acquainted with a few of the many contradictions that exist side-by-side in Iranian life: one of the most hospitable peoples in the world, governed by one of the most rabid, repressive governments in the world; informants who like political theatre; censors who don't understand metaphor; welcoming modern galleries with hidden, unmarked doors; the list goes on.</span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I also learned fear. On Feb 14, 2011 - or Bahman 25 in the Persian calendar - I was witness to a portion of a massive demonstration - the largest in the country since the fraudulent election in 2009, in which Ahmadinejad tightened his grip. I didn't blog about this at the time, because of what happened to me that day.</span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qs2OCjjRjRCUhNVBR9_z5wlJ_PFxHKwNywrfuAITML64X-rxrRALr1aTG8TVaH5ePqtBQFOnyhaqtF3W9oamUXZOPMtTn4xEreGYrLKbzZpMVGeSFvu5ouy0Bd8dC1eLxlzSA2OJO1iv/s1600/IMG_1627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qs2OCjjRjRCUhNVBR9_z5wlJ_PFxHKwNywrfuAITML64X-rxrRALr1aTG8TVaH5ePqtBQFOnyhaqtF3W9oamUXZOPMtTn4xEreGYrLKbzZpMVGeSFvu5ouy0Bd8dC1eLxlzSA2OJO1iv/s320/IMG_1627.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></a></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A tile from the Golestan Palace in Tehran. A country devouring itself?</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; font-size: small;">The City Theatre in Tehran is situated beside Englehab Street - or Revolution Street. This is the traditional route for demonstrations, which proceed past the City Theatre, and on many kilometres to squares further to the west. </span></div></div></div></div></span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The jury went to the theatre early that day, to ensure we could get through the traffic, and still arrive on time. We got to the City Theatre long before the play we were to see that afternoon, so we waited in a windowed office above the street. Between us and Englehab street, was a large open space. Today in that space, were parked a great many police vans. There were riot police everywhere. Militia everywhere. And the demonstration was unlike any I had ever seen before. There were no signs, no slogans. It was very difficult to tell if there even was a demonstration for the longest time. It's a busy street, and there was much foot traffic. After a while, though, I realized that the foot traffic was growing steadily more dense, and was all going in one direction - west. This went on for about an hour - and I saw what must have been thousands and thousands of people walking west - calmly, quietly - past the hundreds of riot police. Horns were blaring - but N. (our guide and translator) read this as solidarity. People were demonstrating in a way that was almost invisible, that needed interpretation to be understood.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I took my camera out. N. had warned us of photos. He didn't mind that we take photos, he just said that we must NOT get caught. Iran has banned all foreign journalists from the country, and goes to great lengths to prevent any images from leaking out. Something deep within me rebels against this, and so I snap away from our vantage point - hiding my camera from view.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">It's then time to go downstairs to see a play. It seems odd. Andrea, the Italian juror, says he wishes he was out there with them.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Little does he know what's to follow... </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This day, N. had suggested that the festival organize a security guard to accompany the jury in our van - in case of roadblocks, or trouble. What I didn't realize at the time, was that our route from one theatre to the next, after the first play of the day, was to lead us directly THROUGH the demonstration.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">That's right. We were about to drive THROUGH an anti-government demonstration in IRAN to get to a PLAY!!!!</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">No one protests. We get in the van - the 5-member jury, Andrea's wife, Daniele, the security guard, and N. It takes us at least half an hour to go half a block to the intersection with Englehab street. I am sitting in the very back of the minivan, taking pictures, trying to hide my tiny camera from view. Suddenly, after what has been an extremely boring process, waiting in a traffic jam, we are in the middle of Englehab. There are men streaming around us, shouting. The van is lurching, stopping, lurching. It is sheer chaos. What I don't realize, is that a great number of the men around us are plainclothes Sepah - or private militiamen, aka the Revolutionary Guard. Stupidly, I keep trying to take pics, frustrated by the bumps, and knowing i'm not getting a good shot. This gives the young secret policemen a chance to see my camera.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And then, all hell breaks loose. </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The van is swarmed. Night sticks are out. Men are screaming at me, inches from my face, on the other side of the window. They are pounding on the van for it to stop. The driver gets to the other side of Englehab, and stops. He opens the sliding door (which is automatic), and my position in the rear of the van now works in my favour. </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A couple of men poke their heads in and reach for me, wanting both me and my camera. They can't reach. They are shouting. N., seated by the sliding door, calmly begins to talk to them, as does our security guard. From now on, I don't understand what's happening - other than the fact that N. is trying to save my ass. The Sepah men are very young - 20? 22? - and have that disconnected gaze of ignorant, violence-prone youth. They hear I am a foreigner, and say something like "even worse" - but they are no longer grabbing for me. They know what the Fadjr festival is - and see that we are an international jury with badges - guests of the government. The young men are replaced by older men. There is a crowd around the van, men consulting with one another, and, behind the van, the swarming demonstration. It is dusk, slipping into night. A surreal blur of electric light, riot police and masses of men. N. is still talking. In English, without looking back at me, he tells me to remove the memory card, and hide it. I do. The security guard suggests to the older Sepah or Revolutionary Guard or secret policeman (it's hard to tell what anyone actually is), that perhaps the young men were mistaken, and that I had a cellphone, not a camera. The conversation seems to no longer take into account that I am right there (I have now hidden my camera from view, as well). </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Our two Persian jurors are sitting near the front of the van. Mashoud is a TV/Film star in Iran, and is recognized everywhere we go. Sayeed is a famous and distinguished academic, and a friend, I believe, of the regime - although during this whole process he has said nothing - just stared straight ahead. The officer recognizes them, and - for whatever reason - finally decides to let us go. We drive on. I have no real idea how long the whole process took. Five minutes? Fifteen? I apologize to the van. I have put them through a fairly tense few minutes.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">And then the show we see - after all of this - is terrible. We risked our lives for this? I think. After the show, in the lobby, Mashoud came up to me and said, cryptically, "There are some things you don't need to be afraid of". He then walked away. N. spoke of the surgical mask the officer was wearing, and said - Did you notice his mask? Someone like him would not have been wearing a mask last year. Now he is afraid of being recognized. This is a sign that they know things might not go well for the regime.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Iranians obviously have the ability to read events in a way that completely eludes me. </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I go home that night, and email my photos to a journalist friend in Toronto. I let Kelly Nestruck, from the Globe and Mail, know about my blog. Then I change my mind, and ask him not to plug it in the Globe. I am paranoid - many of the photos I have already posted are illegal - taken in galleries where photography was prohibited. I really doubt this could get me into trouble - but fear teaches me caution, now.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Welcome to the police state.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1667px; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhadFxo1mlCu75D19RgGMGA0SjBNFl9n8fXi8WVDYWFFMEx2qJJhcCsXx1DScAH-oRtqXyWiTnNm3SNl77u7t3iKNFs6C7sfegjntQxycJoJH1XgQs41q9oS6Rw7Bpk_KfdM6QSG_fKqx2l/s1600/IMG_1484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhadFxo1mlCu75D19RgGMGA0SjBNFl9n8fXi8WVDYWFFMEx2qJJhcCsXx1DScAH-oRtqXyWiTnNm3SNl77u7t3iKNFs6C7sfegjntQxycJoJH1XgQs41q9oS6Rw7Bpk_KfdM6QSG_fKqx2l/s400/IMG_1484.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnHCno8UnUwDbg6ME_VabHZpyL2j3GLG40KSyHsa-ihdOkfgmvXOndvtg16KG6KeZs5jOLFLzofSCtxxpUbbSRj7Lvl04FD0WSjrj6Uu2Th-VkNsU8fiqM3e-3uKsbpthVRPF0-7rPPU_t/s1600/IMG_1485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnHCno8UnUwDbg6ME_VabHZpyL2j3GLG40KSyHsa-ihdOkfgmvXOndvtg16KG6KeZs5jOLFLzofSCtxxpUbbSRj7Lvl04FD0WSjrj6Uu2Th-VkNsU8fiqM3e-3uKsbpthVRPF0-7rPPU_t/s400/IMG_1485.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1B0Fs-Hs0dliB29SCnNwemrsq7DCy2nUiq9hgCKr47ScJtM5ZGKIE_oMnZujPOM2oUFrHv0z9Bz9WP5IB3Qh5i0GMpoXZV168gHoIMUAqam2srDiRwnkCk7voz_GQOHxBJ10HzK2kgys/s1600/IMG_1487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS1B0Fs-Hs0dliB29SCnNwemrsq7DCy2nUiq9hgCKr47ScJtM5ZGKIE_oMnZujPOM2oUFrHv0z9Bz9WP5IB3Qh5i0GMpoXZV168gHoIMUAqam2srDiRwnkCk7voz_GQOHxBJ10HzK2kgys/s400/IMG_1487.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMNNy2yODE-S8NRFUk3mM00ICfiVzo5Si_UT0wQpn7mFDb64HEm9B63GrslJCfy65MKkuWf7nQwCSxEJbh-h77xmlIMdNzANfYX0HW2cVVdY8_kGhfitr7SeLovM96PPd8A-nQwtvAM9tD/s1600/IMG_1488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMNNy2yODE-S8NRFUk3mM00ICfiVzo5Si_UT0wQpn7mFDb64HEm9B63GrslJCfy65MKkuWf7nQwCSxEJbh-h77xmlIMdNzANfYX0HW2cVVdY8_kGhfitr7SeLovM96PPd8A-nQwtvAM9tD/s400/IMG_1488.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJ4jgm1OpGWQFgSRaOKUmlAyd8r5CcnOuQjQcrbZBbTPsU8wg0FWTZQUkpWrpHkj_NJ4W74fT4PTNES8YwZIl4u6544Qr3BPeCW5VkQ3JxC5YxpSM1W_Sog_fek8551SV6TvlxZkJ3pIi/s1600/IMG_1489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJ4jgm1OpGWQFgSRaOKUmlAyd8r5CcnOuQjQcrbZBbTPsU8wg0FWTZQUkpWrpHkj_NJ4W74fT4PTNES8YwZIl4u6544Qr3BPeCW5VkQ3JxC5YxpSM1W_Sog_fek8551SV6TvlxZkJ3pIi/s400/IMG_1489.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6y3GP4A06gRiZ3Y401s5hy2zHB4-i37g1ejFFsBw_pB0PIJpnosKX0ekj_5xSUPZdLisiINMVCIEeExUwUMOKexO7cei5AoVGIIO6EAt0bhryjBkffUG3X8SjUhn21QVFvWFJkYybW5Gb/s1600/IMG_1490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6y3GP4A06gRiZ3Y401s5hy2zHB4-i37g1ejFFsBw_pB0PIJpnosKX0ekj_5xSUPZdLisiINMVCIEeExUwUMOKexO7cei5AoVGIIO6EAt0bhryjBkffUG3X8SjUhn21QVFvWFJkYybW5Gb/s400/IMG_1490.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1WXglO1sV27JdM3OKR0gTjciNkimbdAs2wriXyio1mV6VKFNJLnDewgKOB52-qSSroFFTJLuC9ur4digXMrfuYVhtdlHlJUuz-6xoTa4kwnzXaCAqybpAG-X3AZ8Z_uhJwJkt7vSPvw-W/s1600/IMG_1491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkef1VP_bG15ixEuWgCy14AlAyKn7QY3JIwXuBUXJRrGbHhOBQy1hTt3Z_pWfk6gLn20lgIGQ3JYHUfBU20nB7F8supSoXOtjxkX58dTfVPlY6WY4zNPQ2e5TWjRlcc8KR1b7xdDa1OHJ/s1600/IMG_1492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkef1VP_bG15ixEuWgCy14AlAyKn7QY3JIwXuBUXJRrGbHhOBQy1hTt3Z_pWfk6gLn20lgIGQ3JYHUfBU20nB7F8supSoXOtjxkX58dTfVPlY6WY4zNPQ2e5TWjRlcc8KR1b7xdDa1OHJ/s400/IMG_1492.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDXLPJ0CAxMUKrOVDZAOQjKxciv9r9fgw1AlGeGrleOSlfpCvvoseRYPDXarCCEiU_EDFyIt6yE561yYwKrULkkUrj7LUCHGcbEshNoUQf2ywG2exWyKzhEheczTu68RNzNAxbwQ9cO-Zw/s1600/IMG_1493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6YPyZoYESjvbjb5JjmE6VT8CGOCQdOm28elI1b9sT9uG2Oxb6QB8ULaGroLmS4TTp85MBzpkoe16bJNasRkJ70vN7S8SnFXMaXfr54r6DPZ9Faqjkq5y7BSyPfl59AOLPUh3KuvoIucz/s1600/IMG_1494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM6YPyZoYESjvbjb5JjmE6VT8CGOCQdOm28elI1b9sT9uG2Oxb6QB8ULaGroLmS4TTp85MBzpkoe16bJNasRkJ70vN7S8SnFXMaXfr54r6DPZ9Faqjkq5y7BSyPfl59AOLPUh3KuvoIucz/s400/IMG_1494.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; 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text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgql2jQvrBIUokkPKNJokq2gUwqC8o_0QcwsrvI7tSPcoPVRWeBUV_fOtY7niG4vDgmfBe8nMPkwFfUtlOqnCotv-lJeYZeCwj6x4cniX_EzwxXJJ5UiiDCA_sliOFFINgTl6IIv-4C6vj/s1600/IMG_1495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Englehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></span></h3><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaqQG45_RSKzj9zNCD75mPyxD5ZvW9ZedzQQooaq5KlTtCqgsvX8uuaMkh-I9wTlVJouyl5TKEADRqh4gfzMptQw25WF9Obd9Ad7jyE6l0RP_yAavV5niQKJUcY-lEHcSEuLw2v_6Fg2lm/s1600/IMG_1497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaqQG45_RSKzj9zNCD75mPyxD5ZvW9ZedzQQooaq5KlTtCqgsvX8uuaMkh-I9wTlVJouyl5TKEADRqh4gfzMptQw25WF9Obd9Ad7jyE6l0RP_yAavV5niQKJUcY-lEHcSEuLw2v_6Fg2lm/s400/IMG_1497.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaqQG45_RSKzj9zNCD75mPyxD5ZvW9ZedzQQooaq5KlTtCqgsvX8uuaMkh-I9wTlVJouyl5TKEADRqh4gfzMptQw25WF9Obd9Ad7jyE6l0RP_yAavV5niQKJUcY-lEHcSEuLw2v_6Fg2lm/s1600/IMG_1497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">E</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">nglehab Street, Bahman 25 / Feb 14, 2011 - Tehran</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" style="font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.4em; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0.25em; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana;"><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></span></span></span></h3></span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1667px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A Final Word, Written the Night of Bahman 25</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1667px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Iran. This place gives one perspective. But also - it's strange - it warps one, I think. Being a foreigner in a place that is most definitely not free is strangely distancing, or strangely poisoning. I can't quite describe it. There's always some fear, and, for someone like me, always an anticipation of the relief of escape - of getting out and going home. And with that comes the awareness that such escape is not possible for the people here. I guess Iran makes a foreigner aware of the fact that their life is NOT here, NOT like the lives of the Iranians - and dealing with this can take several forms, can affect one in several ways - not all positive.</span></span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1667px; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; 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margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; 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margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I am thinking about freedom in a very different way now. I long to get away, and that makes me feel a bit weak, a bit less. To have this longing means I don't care enough to sacrifice my own freedom for the sake of an unfree people. And yes - of course it's not my problem - but being IN the place where something is happening in front of one is a different experience than reading about it, or watching it on Al Jazeera. For humans, nothing is like BEING there. One is confronted with questions - how do I feel about this? What do I do now? Who am I? As a theatre artist, I think about the art form that is theatre, and how it can have a power similar to the event I just went through - but, at the same time, I know NOTHING can replicate the there-ness of extremity, of being in an extreme situation. Yet, again at the same time - I know that theatre is vital, and especially vital here. Useful. Intense. Art connects people to one another IN THE FACE of extremity. In defiance of ignorance.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Who am I? A good question. In the van, with secret police shouting at me, I was completely calm. Later, I felt a dread, a background worry, that was there to stay for the rest of my trip. I recognized that I was frightened. Not overwhelmingly, but just enough. Frightened of blogging about what happened. Frightened for myself, and frightened for others. This prompted me to leave out many names in this blog. To leave out the demonstration pictures I had taken. I began planning more carefully how I would handle the information that was coming to me.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Ahh, said N. You see? You're becoming like us.</span></div></div></div></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I am now back in Toronto. I will put up my photos of the demonstration - nothing at all remarkable about them, really, except for the fact that so few photos exist of this day. Nothing at all remarkable about what happened to me - it happened, in different versions, to several of the foreign theatre artists here. Where I was, there was no violence, no tear gas, and no live rounds. Later, however, we heard that the young theatre student killed that night, was killed very close to where we were stopped. </span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 17px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal 'Trebuchet MS'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So. Here are the last images - a collection of photos I took from the back of a minivan, the ones that got me in trouble - terrible photos! Just all terrible - except as somewhat expressionist, blurry representations of chaos, and a society heaving against itself, buckling along fault lines.</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">What will come next?</span></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjENq5qQZ4J3cUcrh_-tA6D32okw8N5ZZzIe157P15UMgDlpL_xf9rBL0WSXxn_H0G1d5QQVyLfdhDBz301fkawL1B1Bw-w6pMERoMPDFgzuIH8lWvVB6Hm_zOvZ2H9pcJi7o-G8HzfLVKn/s1600/IMG_1505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjENq5qQZ4J3cUcrh_-tA6D32okw8N5ZZzIe157P15UMgDlpL_xf9rBL0WSXxn_H0G1d5QQVyLfdhDBz301fkawL1B1Bw-w6pMERoMPDFgzuIH8lWvVB6Hm_zOvZ2H9pcJi7o-G8HzfLVKn/s400/IMG_1505.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Traffic jam - on the way towards Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBdTMBofHcpuEzcdadiFp4TBZtKn3xu2M-sg-VEnYorCrvWCDhQCgNZ4k70HDIfQTF748TNbIbyzw78syGYdrx4GaZ1XGn1q1XVVcEkiWr0QcgEdFdO2FHkLMExD_uFVFwLT5o0PnRG5Z/s1600/IMG_1506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnBdTMBofHcpuEzcdadiFp4TBZtKn3xu2M-sg-VEnYorCrvWCDhQCgNZ4k70HDIfQTF748TNbIbyzw78syGYdrx4GaZ1XGn1q1XVVcEkiWr0QcgEdFdO2FHkLMExD_uFVFwLT5o0PnRG5Z/s400/IMG_1506.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Traffic jam - on the way towards Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-v_y3Q3ZdVEKL4JxG6C5aQyfoCohoOhwXf_Gn7jDPiwklDEg32CgLXA4yPaOh4teqpw5Ro3K8-mwbg-USsO2xQnUH_IaO0zG2ph3A-HEGZAnnBIZwxqTG3BXLCd0T7OMW18_6SFpjVut/s1600/IMG_1508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-v_y3Q3ZdVEKL4JxG6C5aQyfoCohoOhwXf_Gn7jDPiwklDEg32CgLXA4yPaOh4teqpw5Ro3K8-mwbg-USsO2xQnUH_IaO0zG2ph3A-HEGZAnnBIZwxqTG3BXLCd0T7OMW18_6SFpjVut/s400/IMG_1508.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">In the middle of Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5PpIG0JrJIgqBFBh575zbPQ6Mlvm-xCQiBah8kyytTWoi1G_MuUnxP-Ol1MLVuJWoEu44RbMZbZsOCrKeJ5XxI4l7SsBTibLIg5SZGXNiGiky73zZF3CcgDLagYoyOwjl_JGrGXZVX-dr/s1600/IMG_1509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5PpIG0JrJIgqBFBh575zbPQ6Mlvm-xCQiBah8kyytTWoi1G_MuUnxP-Ol1MLVuJWoEu44RbMZbZsOCrKeJ5XxI4l7SsBTibLIg5SZGXNiGiky73zZF3CcgDLagYoyOwjl_JGrGXZVX-dr/s400/IMG_1509.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A banner of the Iranian flag, Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5-pSu2GRWhKUoW1Dapj21edLOgMUnIv96791jrsA52_VKutXnj1izUUJVtUASinp7hijseeOfOS_FvE-__H8k_v81_h8kcRCp9Y1nU06nbST8Xj1H8kgaF9iinJxwg2Ue2dpkSf6Tbzh/s1600/IMG_1510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF5-pSu2GRWhKUoW1Dapj21edLOgMUnIv96791jrsA52_VKutXnj1izUUJVtUASinp7hijseeOfOS_FvE-__H8k_v81_h8kcRCp9Y1nU06nbST8Xj1H8kgaF9iinJxwg2Ue2dpkSf6Tbzh/s400/IMG_1510.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">In the middle of Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjWOgrS_oaJ_FsuW_4r_9fTiVjuFWiNr6z6F4glfu5SA42_69pfqFd9MKl9IOpxXYbUrufqhBaQMVx5_yr1M5iOrGrZwTrIOF-bLpDPuhmcc828C5RHScJPULZLbtItq0oEJwm7w5cyvI/s1600/IMG_1511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPjWOgrS_oaJ_FsuW_4r_9fTiVjuFWiNr6z6F4glfu5SA42_69pfqFd9MKl9IOpxXYbUrufqhBaQMVx5_yr1M5iOrGrZwTrIOF-bLpDPuhmcc828C5RHScJPULZLbtItq0oEJwm7w5cyvI/s400/IMG_1511.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">In the middle of Englehab Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLThUD0glrzsoyZ1jXKTt5PCfimqL0ktB634TNSNBGRO75_6c9JDL6lHqgJZD082lY4iHLRA3P5QYetzWo7X6WvohdeqOxQY9ng4K0kl9j5mq5aILDgMEAKTRI-lSGyKDSdD8ljBj4H36K/s1600/IMG_1507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: black;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLThUD0glrzsoyZ1jXKTt5PCfimqL0ktB634TNSNBGRO75_6c9JDL6lHqgJZD082lY4iHLRA3P5QYetzWo7X6WvohdeqOxQY9ng4K0kl9j5mq5aILDgMEAKTRI-lSGyKDSdD8ljBj4H36K/s400/IMG_1507.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A face through the window, Englehab Street, Bahman 25, just moments before my near-arrest</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></div></span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-86449179895256598712011-02-26T15:48:00.000-08:002011-03-17T21:07:12.061-07:00Isfahan / Esfahan / and so long Iran<div style="font: 19.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"Isfahan is half the world", the saying goes. This entry is to attest that whatever else is true about Iran - Esfahan is magic. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7eZ5Fcsq-tfDQYXiRFLW1wSYASQRE3wAzKKLnA-Ibv-xIaUBtNspOg9xQIj53iRxDWbORhAoNnrssdHOtKQHJ9pfGFDP5X26pjEZh5jBGXtUXZJy520fwS13mdkyjLfl5BC8-VAl4dh2/s1600/IMG_1866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7eZ5Fcsq-tfDQYXiRFLW1wSYASQRE3wAzKKLnA-Ibv-xIaUBtNspOg9xQIj53iRxDWbORhAoNnrssdHOtKQHJ9pfGFDP5X26pjEZh5jBGXtUXZJy520fwS13mdkyjLfl5BC8-VAl4dh2/s320/IMG_1866.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Spelling: Isfahan or Esfahan. Take your pick. The word exists in Persian, or Farsi, or Parsi, and not in English, other than as a phonetic approximation. This explains the various spellings in English of Farsi words. "Farsi" itself is spelled AND pronounced variously. There is history behind this. The "P" sound does not exist in Arabic, and at one time, when Arabs overran the joint, Farsi became the name of the local lingo, since the Arabs couldn't say 'Parsi". "F" was the best they could muster. Persians got the place back, eventually, but the Arab word for their own language stuck. Kind of. It's a complicated place. Even a sound can depend on how people sit with their own history. Some people describe themselves as Iranians, some as Persians. Sometimes this is interchangeable, sometimes it's political. Persia is a great and ancient culture, traditionally cosmopolitan and tolerant - but ruled for millennia by monarchs. Iran is more recent, and now ruled by religious despots who tolerate nothing. This, more than anything, tells me that this regime will not last. There is something deep within the DNA of Persia that will not suffer, indefinitely, a repressive, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">anti-global, anti-modern </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">police-state. The only questions are, when will it shift, and how much blood will that shift cost?</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Hmm. And that post began as an explanation of spelling…</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBRm8H7p8PaAqY6cf4ukub9fTZ0VI5xX1xObSOKfFFmudK1CiTUzJcxuhRdZrh4nhpcW47hbp7yAn95j2nqk6mGHnmd40xR9tMlYORNNm-8ZTn5ZsIVY5D8Mwv7hhSmWPYxh1lbxOjvS2/s1600/IMG_1823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBRm8H7p8PaAqY6cf4ukub9fTZ0VI5xX1xObSOKfFFmudK1CiTUzJcxuhRdZrh4nhpcW47hbp7yAn95j2nqk6mGHnmd40xR9tMlYORNNm-8ZTn5ZsIVY5D8Mwv7hhSmWPYxh1lbxOjvS2/s320/IMG_1823.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 13.1944px;">One of I</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13.1944px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">sfahan's many bridges</span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13.1944px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_oDp_gaans1ya_ZDPDMY3fPmyQLUAVdh249KRTorgZJiOz71J8IpXJ8aeuBhNlkgVb-kpZ4Wg6Cp5_9hHnnzxFstRT_B2w5kbSz6SATdP1299bZvc8PzLvh4wDwE-xct55oFLXEPXgkwg/s1600/IMG_1840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_oDp_gaans1ya_ZDPDMY3fPmyQLUAVdh249KRTorgZJiOz71J8IpXJ8aeuBhNlkgVb-kpZ4Wg6Cp5_9hHnnzxFstRT_B2w5kbSz6SATdP1299bZvc8PzLvh4wDwE-xct55oFLXEPXgkwg/s320/IMG_1840.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13.3333px;">Another of I</span>sfahan's many bridges</span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 15.8333px;"><br />
</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9SAwijYowtyt0pafRCT9YofCuTno20_fzQoM4lj98N_gBMGIRhlPaQfgsbn5BSmtXEC6mIyTpF15nuN_clm-PD6Ygare34jboN_gc1Xt3paFJqUARS79cZ7leP1yHr9ZqiMTQBzy-4qT/s1600/IMG_1848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9SAwijYowtyt0pafRCT9YofCuTno20_fzQoM4lj98N_gBMGIRhlPaQfgsbn5BSmtXEC6mIyTpF15nuN_clm-PD6Ygare34jboN_gc1Xt3paFJqUARS79cZ7leP1yHr9ZqiMTQBzy-4qT/s320/IMG_1848.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ali Qapu Palace, Isfahan</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1hoUv9itPTM8xo4XjbbGxzJgKVpKkiJLXIVG8x0IuUCaA1iEE_xf6UrGkt6JwQDs1LqYRqlzCHon-s7Awsqu3eb2Q7Zlh6CpVlwyebMIY4jZAZ6lNo7yV4s9M9ILTVSk1UmsUBcRt68xC/s1600/IMG_1849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1hoUv9itPTM8xo4XjbbGxzJgKVpKkiJLXIVG8x0IuUCaA1iEE_xf6UrGkt6JwQDs1LqYRqlzCHon-s7Awsqu3eb2Q7Zlh6CpVlwyebMIY4jZAZ6lNo7yV4s9M9ILTVSk1UmsUBcRt68xC/s320/IMG_1849.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Directly across from the Ali Qapu Palace - the Sheik Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPR_e2LW-AgBKrPvpf1bCJJ9TTPRjzxNvjALO8Vzw9W4zzPL-c-sx8vE993OpAyQ7r2ZEkRRHT3oSu-l8f9vVvo1OIszWso12dxqIT80_G8MXARhuE3gVnertaCPH6Re48nl4q69CZvO0n/s1600/IMG_1986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPR_e2LW-AgBKrPvpf1bCJJ9TTPRjzxNvjALO8Vzw9W4zzPL-c-sx8vE993OpAyQ7r2ZEkRRHT3oSu-l8f9vVvo1OIszWso12dxqIT80_G8MXARhuE3gVnertaCPH6Re48nl4q69CZvO0n/s320/IMG_1986.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Ross by Mosque light</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUrasRUQ4P9wgF37KqAUajDJ7ro2mCw-dP_nGqsWKT7H0c-A_P7arI92QGYQrUw9p-kucJ2DWYpXZOIfjLUJQEuC1dgnv9mfEu42mI2lYrgan7U-kBx_w1vvAF1bDlPOFXIIc2T-0_pRw/s1600/IMG_2039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUrasRUQ4P9wgF37KqAUajDJ7ro2mCw-dP_nGqsWKT7H0c-A_P7arI92QGYQrUw9p-kucJ2DWYpXZOIfjLUJQEuC1dgnv9mfEu42mI2lYrgan7U-kBx_w1vvAF1bDlPOFXIIc2T-0_pRw/s320/IMG_2039.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Well-dressed young Isfahanians</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH8Xxvyh5eW78dHwnZI2QOPEDhqifq7C73CoNirXoi30xRgjjIRJduG_CB1iBgoAxYcPxeLl4Pp-GrPftVJ-1gRKo5HqXr5TZsSQPVvR833c-GChoCBctv9liHJSzPyvw0Nr1hE45TDyR/s1600/IMG_2051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcH8Xxvyh5eW78dHwnZI2QOPEDhqifq7C73CoNirXoi30xRgjjIRJduG_CB1iBgoAxYcPxeLl4Pp-GrPftVJ-1gRKo5HqXr5TZsSQPVvR833c-GChoCBctv9liHJSzPyvw0Nr1hE45TDyR/s320/IMG_2051.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam Square, Isfahan</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7GsPkoKtQ_z6Q8VnXdIDnkB41sXYI2JDJHnjcakwasYUyNKT7LLI9UeW8F7OoYxZs1L-HraOOeBtKzru_PrLqkw5FhaMMiU2s7csT8TTVFB8uzXCnLPfO6-_s6ofRk1FzDB2pzm2sxql/s1600/IMG_2080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7GsPkoKtQ_z6Q8VnXdIDnkB41sXYI2JDJHnjcakwasYUyNKT7LLI9UeW8F7OoYxZs1L-HraOOeBtKzru_PrLqkw5FhaMMiU2s7csT8TTVFB8uzXCnLPfO6-_s6ofRk1FzDB2pzm2sxql/s320/IMG_2080.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chehel Sotun Palace, Isfahan</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYBmAkM6XJ7RGXlo_9qUYG9ARe7uvkkx4HOwKG2HJ9nWDJK4wgUUVbG9P85uPZZlcM1Q-cFwgiwlKFGfS8FV3YCxbswh4y0caVp1l_6Rtma-b7PL7NF3Cx2sessH0xXF52i5PkDAft3Ft/s1600/IMG_2082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjYBmAkM6XJ7RGXlo_9qUYG9ARe7uvkkx4HOwKG2HJ9nWDJK4wgUUVbG9P85uPZZlcM1Q-cFwgiwlKFGfS8FV3YCxbswh4y0caVp1l_6Rtma-b7PL7NF3Cx2sessH0xXF52i5PkDAft3Ft/s320/IMG_2082.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Chehel Sotun Palace, Isfahan</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I am glad I came to Esfahan. It has changed completely my perception of Iran. In Tehran, I was beginning to loathe the place - too much pollution, chaos, ugliness and fear. But that is Tehran, and not representative of the entire country, I suspect (well - fear is everywhere, i suppose, given the regime in power). But Esfahan is beautiful. The people are wonderful. The air is clean. This is an Iran I would like to return to.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggBVg3GPWzA3CXyF8eVWwsIr54fqO2ibvngfTJbqeLQutUSK5FFa4ilR77brQy4VW_q1OpI0HBhFmX_29UQWC8RnQvUk2e2hWcXEmPR3X4HfYAsXE8EfutuV3aFyhFLO2nImjH6MvNTUJr/s1600/IMG_1851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggBVg3GPWzA3CXyF8eVWwsIr54fqO2ibvngfTJbqeLQutUSK5FFa4ilR77brQy4VW_q1OpI0HBhFmX_29UQWC8RnQvUk2e2hWcXEmPR3X4HfYAsXE8EfutuV3aFyhFLO2nImjH6MvNTUJr/s320/IMG_1851.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam Mosque (formerly Shah Mosque), Isfahan - dating from 1611</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-x1rCMNIHVUdOsUUmlfDgHCYKfUaoaaUilUYI5KHEYYv9jua6tJi9O3mxx-57M6GkcNBRAMxFtAfs-wgQD3SBigJbBYAZO2F745wsONhNDbECl1iO_fW_lCPIIUEvLpUGJaiipQUNG9ub/s1600/IMG_1869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-x1rCMNIHVUdOsUUmlfDgHCYKfUaoaaUilUYI5KHEYYv9jua6tJi9O3mxx-57M6GkcNBRAMxFtAfs-wgQD3SBigJbBYAZO2F745wsONhNDbECl1iO_fW_lCPIIUEvLpUGJaiipQUNG9ub/s320/IMG_1869.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam Mosque, Isfahan</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnj8Lz1BVgDg86Vtch2BO-lmS53YGSNL0MbOGqNKmF69pemucTKIT4l2G4D7DChcz9_cyDzmukd9hmN8Hqd_CNMuaadpzRMmsPwauHH7wLtXYM02Yy1WfT8A3L-ak-lO71XS3QNn-CmNR/s1600/IMG_1872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnj8Lz1BVgDg86Vtch2BO-lmS53YGSNL0MbOGqNKmF69pemucTKIT4l2G4D7DChcz9_cyDzmukd9hmN8Hqd_CNMuaadpzRMmsPwauHH7wLtXYM02Yy1WfT8A3L-ak-lO71XS3QNn-CmNR/s320/IMG_1872.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Sheik Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan - dating from 1617</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4NUaSucA6ov0Mu5WBCyrGyjXZdIK2pj-4o3a3Mam908HrL8hmEefc4ZhOR2mjUd2UYi0TCG6yasg3DSxlpn422m3YZAu4WyIIM7OFj2ldiRAGggvYPoIV5qiHxn6bQbXsod3oag4bpvo/s1600/IMG_1902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4NUaSucA6ov0Mu5WBCyrGyjXZdIK2pj-4o3a3Mam908HrL8hmEefc4ZhOR2mjUd2UYi0TCG6yasg3DSxlpn422m3YZAu4WyIIM7OFj2ldiRAGggvYPoIV5qiHxn6bQbXsod3oag4bpvo/s320/IMG_1902.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Sheik Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGuuMfe0sdLvZmPYc15af4nm5anMkiuKxYQu51di9e4jMSruUgU9bd26TshsFYkoUUxF46R_pVFBG14ouWM1v74HdI3x4byyr2SqlVabdgg0iYR6twVCEGA1ldH7_V2CKoJDWwm50fCC0/s1600/IMG_1904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGuuMfe0sdLvZmPYc15af4nm5anMkiuKxYQu51di9e4jMSruUgU9bd26TshsFYkoUUxF46R_pVFBG14ouWM1v74HdI3x4byyr2SqlVabdgg0iYR6twVCEGA1ldH7_V2CKoJDWwm50fCC0/s320/IMG_1904.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam Mosque, Isfahan</span></span></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnedX5Pqa4Fhhs3Lf71d_e7TI5vG-CBMwp16y5hAiEXIvBLRaPhfcgQbLOv99WhqUWS_3X9m4tyZIbJ8paJVkRXhcNd7zOnn66JJm767L-Bxd_d4o4sd0g14VB5xEiqLQRMxPOAPb-IxtI/s1600/IMG_2129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnedX5Pqa4Fhhs3Lf71d_e7TI5vG-CBMwp16y5hAiEXIvBLRaPhfcgQbLOv99WhqUWS_3X9m4tyZIbJ8paJVkRXhcNd7zOnn66JJm767L-Bxd_d4o4sd0g14VB5xEiqLQRMxPOAPb-IxtI/s320/IMG_2129.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan. </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The oldest mosque in the city - dating from the 7th century AD - and built on the foundations of a Zoroastrian Fire Temple</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggu8GFVbtY9j9mbf5PcUTtY7AtkSsxaH0nhaoPyYQ85M1f8b314gzinPHSfdU0WSh3fLzivb2dK726Z8_lQLgWnV0vBFITHf7JEgyMjrv6ncpX094oOKQIvH0Z7BCbch5Fki-U0-miCwAG/s1600/IMG_2144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggu8GFVbtY9j9mbf5PcUTtY7AtkSsxaH0nhaoPyYQ85M1f8b314gzinPHSfdU0WSh3fLzivb2dK726Z8_lQLgWnV0vBFITHf7JEgyMjrv6ncpX094oOKQIvH0Z7BCbch5Fki-U0-miCwAG/s320/IMG_2144.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheq8ZFWL9pSVKpCkPO7TA5rOo_-xSENM89U4vGkznnMiNzRt9TDz2dFicGZbTU1NQsO2r7NOU53sy2CYZujZBP12pUtM5UE8ruup5dHpDb9NYN5s040Kjg11eQOVDLT91SqsRdXRD8fwhK/s1600/IMG_2157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheq8ZFWL9pSVKpCkPO7TA5rOo_-xSENM89U4vGkznnMiNzRt9TDz2dFicGZbTU1NQsO2r7NOU53sy2CYZujZBP12pUtM5UE8ruup5dHpDb9NYN5s040Kjg11eQOVDLT91SqsRdXRD8fwhK/s320/IMG_2157.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtc7lkj7rvdRUQBnaNalcwVvJHZ_0jTniSFIaNfZJEWODGBUNPYRGgkkf-F0JB2s11eSMO6R8kj6KpfG-qF0JidqFKqCulJGRKWbUtjbvw7gVCBLyMZDx9UbQnQ4KLT5QWu-c6TC83e4Y/s1600/IMG_2158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtc7lkj7rvdRUQBnaNalcwVvJHZ_0jTniSFIaNfZJEWODGBUNPYRGgkkf-F0JB2s11eSMO6R8kj6KpfG-qF0JidqFKqCulJGRKWbUtjbvw7gVCBLyMZDx9UbQnQ4KLT5QWu-c6TC83e4Y/s320/IMG_2158.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> A design that contains a poem, Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiju0_Q_mHX5HQ7zMk3A67r8H08zeuV8Kksy5djVmAS3Z6REy__KknleAQndMddP_2sRianc_d77wpMHbrfukqeSnE7K0eSyOAJ1xwAGAmSZG5XpfcHZvB8H-gzNsPwkD5N3Zz8SHocoJfl/s1600/IMG_2165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiju0_Q_mHX5HQ7zMk3A67r8H08zeuV8Kksy5djVmAS3Z6REy__KknleAQndMddP_2sRianc_d77wpMHbrfukqeSnE7K0eSyOAJ1xwAGAmSZG5XpfcHZvB8H-gzNsPwkD5N3Zz8SHocoJfl/s320/IMG_2165.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Brick work, Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan - every section of ceiling has a different design</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciE5SBh45F-HpPFxeJ72Mk-yA-TM0fwffcGoa8KWxtHw1GOVW4A_DDw9xUmISn8TA-6S-noPQ4EjDAL1MI-nAerd3QaYdgG7Ui1M4KCIe172-AGs9B4Em7AWaQ60t6rSaVY8vZV4LfzvC/s1600/IMG_2168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjciE5SBh45F-HpPFxeJ72Mk-yA-TM0fwffcGoa8KWxtHw1GOVW4A_DDw9xUmISn8TA-6S-noPQ4EjDAL1MI-nAerd3QaYdgG7Ui1M4KCIe172-AGs9B4Em7AWaQ60t6rSaVY8vZV4LfzvC/s320/IMG_2168.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Jomeh Mosque, Isfahan</span></span></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The Hotel Abassi. Wow. An ancient caravanserai, turned into a luxury hotel. I have never stayed in a place like this before. In Europe, it would doubltess cost well over $500 a night. Here, it's $75. The place is covered with hand-painted wall panels, mosaics, mirrors, and chandeliers. It is an enormous square of a building, with a beautiful central courtyard and garden. The ancient dome of a mosque looms over the hotel, from the adjacent seminary. The food is good. The internet, for the first time during this trip, is fast, and works without a problem. And the weather is perfect. Sunny, 18C in February. I don't look forward to the return to Canada's weather. I do look forward to the return to Canada's freedoms.</span><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzQGFzXpJCzn_qfSBhAqwYYeTPG5iKOPkS0K-_XTtn3OC8-5P8Bm6qKA8mC2J0caLuN4q1wiXZARa84bxv6nNOROyT-SD_i7wFaeGjE4Yobc9edp-_2r7hV1KN2sI7qNS4BcfkhrgSLSV/s1600/IMG_1815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzQGFzXpJCzn_qfSBhAqwYYeTPG5iKOPkS0K-_XTtn3OC8-5P8Bm6qKA8mC2J0caLuN4q1wiXZARa84bxv6nNOROyT-SD_i7wFaeGjE4Yobc9edp-_2r7hV1KN2sI7qNS4BcfkhrgSLSV/s320/IMG_1815.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Main lobby, Hotel Abbasi</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_GGNTBLIjTH1Nr4nziN50uuTB5Wp-fE7S7Wjdfw40325bq3PDywzih6yCtQI1F50jK_z8WcCI9ilyoKRLnxdlQ7ld4VBhOe2fm2jhQmEfAS-u9FepxTygk6JhWKbTkmUoggHo13sq2cY/s1600/IMG_1927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_GGNTBLIjTH1Nr4nziN50uuTB5Wp-fE7S7Wjdfw40325bq3PDywzih6yCtQI1F50jK_z8WcCI9ilyoKRLnxdlQ7ld4VBhOe2fm2jhQmEfAS-u9FepxTygk6JhWKbTkmUoggHo13sq2cY/s320/IMG_1927.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Abassi Hotel, Isfahan - the lunch room</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAH2zTlm8bkzF6x0fNg5b-YvtsxKtAt7TICYRP8HT5Z0BBeKHfaMB9hrr3FcDd0o656AI9zUZLbTZBROIU_mkA41NpJYnfZe0datSgLhMqT_c5O3m6HOn7asvlkQHYxSmJ5HWEfXqtzZoW/s1600/IMG_1920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAH2zTlm8bkzF6x0fNg5b-YvtsxKtAt7TICYRP8HT5Z0BBeKHfaMB9hrr3FcDd0o656AI9zUZLbTZBROIU_mkA41NpJYnfZe0datSgLhMqT_c5O3m6HOn7asvlkQHYxSmJ5HWEfXqtzZoW/s320/IMG_1920.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Abassi Hotel - a corridor</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVqYw2zwlsf3Sra8_16q7P4gtjxy0iBsSUdWU0O_RBWLfeYTGrIkaQ19crDc2u9aDBfz4a4i-ANCCE5EJ33axC8uiRIPuDbPsSchaqxbE01rxwRTU6-izhxxh1uWBaV1MeArDoN1Sez_g/s1600/IMG_1921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVqYw2zwlsf3Sra8_16q7P4gtjxy0iBsSUdWU0O_RBWLfeYTGrIkaQ19crDc2u9aDBfz4a4i-ANCCE5EJ33axC8uiRIPuDbPsSchaqxbE01rxwRTU6-izhxxh1uWBaV1MeArDoN1Sez_g/s320/IMG_1921.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Abasi Hotel - the upstairs lobby</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEjtHx3C48eyjMAEySYJ4rBL5TavzVmNc1QePqywwbc0ElF7tlHiYUZT7uDs0wyAyzWrfEafMo-K1JtTW-AADS2eW_aO2mUuDpjjjcSrY5O9PSq0vK4DnXapn8aJxHOFPC7pZ1QODhipz/s1600/IMG_1923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZEjtHx3C48eyjMAEySYJ4rBL5TavzVmNc1QePqywwbc0ElF7tlHiYUZT7uDs0wyAyzWrfEafMo-K1JtTW-AADS2eW_aO2mUuDpjjjcSrY5O9PSq0vK4DnXapn8aJxHOFPC7pZ1QODhipz/s320/IMG_1923.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Abassi Hotel - the breakfast room</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLz1ryst_0c7pMBsirrym6UQhCLwAsVJx53XwnMpHqADhnqyYtVbhMFre7BCne4Li1Z_JW-DrCpfN9PvQfr-iZ0oARlV8CuBfgn5SrTPV4LX5g71INugFigJQnnDxumYTF8ikW9XoeYzRl/s1600/IMG_1934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLz1ryst_0c7pMBsirrym6UQhCLwAsVJx53XwnMpHqADhnqyYtVbhMFre7BCne4Li1Z_JW-DrCpfN9PvQfr-iZ0oARlV8CuBfgn5SrTPV4LX5g71INugFigJQnnDxumYTF8ikW9XoeYzRl/s320/IMG_1934.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Abassi Hotel - the courtyard</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBACFZrF7TTPHdA3S5C0qsFxPkuoegS6gRg7h7T4c9VOt9vAi-AYMlac3HIZiDtaKBt-OoCNAmjYQCny_ZZV7NdKisaBChb4ERG8ueuq5yuowfpeivSPqwjBF9t1uJHYJBULOqBxOA9Hb3/s1600/IMG_1935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBACFZrF7TTPHdA3S5C0qsFxPkuoegS6gRg7h7T4c9VOt9vAi-AYMlac3HIZiDtaKBt-OoCNAmjYQCny_ZZV7NdKisaBChb4ERG8ueuq5yuowfpeivSPqwjBF9t1uJHYJBULOqBxOA9Hb3/s320/IMG_1935.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Abassi Hotel - the courtyard</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GUPN62A_2QMcv6C52_iT1MeKLjIzNIW0IVZi2K66JryK4INJv7uMsKDMwXaYY2bj-2xmXWkuQjmnpEk5JnHDmNZsrp0OGaTgWIW2617GXVuTEGqGDLAXc_WkafPmurYnA5l0e0GX0nia/s1600/IMG_1940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GUPN62A_2QMcv6C52_iT1MeKLjIzNIW0IVZi2K66JryK4INJv7uMsKDMwXaYY2bj-2xmXWkuQjmnpEk5JnHDmNZsrp0OGaTgWIW2617GXVuTEGqGDLAXc_WkafPmurYnA5l0e0GX0nia/s320/IMG_1940.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Abassi Hotel - the courtyard</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The guide who leads myself and Manuel (my Colombian companion - who runs the biggest theatre festival in the world in Bogota), is named Iraj Honarju. Iraj is lovely. Soft-spoken, and well-educated. It is the biggest luxury of this trip to have such an informed guide give us such a personalized tour of an ancient city. In the Imam Khomeini mosque - formerly known at the Shah Mosque, and dating from 1611- Iraj sings a prayer in arabic. We listen to the sound-engineered echo (the architect build the dome so that sound from a specific central location has seven distinct echoes - astonishing). We visit palaces and other mosques - dating back 600 to 900 years. We visit the Grand Bazaar. I buy two rugs and two tablecloths - the latter from an ancient little man tucked away in a shop that is not easy to find. There, he sits and hand-prints tablecloths. Sitting with him, on the two days I visit, are young "tourist police", simply there for his company "We really like him", they say. I do, too.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_dni4TSr5V3RqJ4igE0CIECILepLUSzrpBw4FrFps4mT-FoYdFw_Fh0vnyWkkCal30LtmRoA3v8G3cwc-yOUmdN-SSEd9gm8qg43LEbXW5SqvGzY2f8hfBQ4z56UYAkKARy6lV4Y1aDn-/s1600/IMG_1876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_dni4TSr5V3RqJ4igE0CIECILepLUSzrpBw4FrFps4mT-FoYdFw_Fh0vnyWkkCal30LtmRoA3v8G3cwc-yOUmdN-SSEd9gm8qg43LEbXW5SqvGzY2f8hfBQ4z56UYAkKARy6lV4Y1aDn-/s320/IMG_1876.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The Entrance to the Grand Bazaar, Isfahan</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3jWTTBvtf5wRnoRNz9N4VmLMzAhjPqz6BF_AUIQ41QTw8RF75zTIDpNlxQa5ibRY6gtX_AqZs0CUy0OseCzaOQSuG_2P9M5NmKamrcowndVIHks-1SBOhoRN0_YQgvDD3cobYb3H2XQC/s1600/IMG_1877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3jWTTBvtf5wRnoRNz9N4VmLMzAhjPqz6BF_AUIQ41QTw8RF75zTIDpNlxQa5ibRY6gtX_AqZs0CUy0OseCzaOQSuG_2P9M5NmKamrcowndVIHks-1SBOhoRN0_YQgvDD3cobYb3H2XQC/s320/IMG_1877.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Isfahan Bazaar</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81RY4Xq45rawznDKij72DqT_gHtn892M9_XORF4njCGnBAxkD04CI0_ZaD7RDv3XUvtrWqdNfkkRuhMetl7YDW_eyTsKXd6D1ik3NoHaQUXSIk0Yt-lKdPfcwykVG5Fq4xHLR2uBHjmQP/s1600/IMG_1880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81RY4Xq45rawznDKij72DqT_gHtn892M9_XORF4njCGnBAxkD04CI0_ZaD7RDv3XUvtrWqdNfkkRuhMetl7YDW_eyTsKXd6D1ik3NoHaQUXSIk0Yt-lKdPfcwykVG5Fq4xHLR2uBHjmQP/s320/IMG_1880.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Isfahan Bazaar</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioS5SSedHZHo6IPTEIry_euk5PhfiZg4ViVxQqjgM8jJLqXOeS6uTyVRlAH2fhXA7jRlP20xou4hTJDMoYF2pREtwl5XJkoYDo3-4AEYpK8kTJ6fT2QRQIQr-KmMHF47zGOz3U8weyc_T_/s1600/IMG_2185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioS5SSedHZHo6IPTEIry_euk5PhfiZg4ViVxQqjgM8jJLqXOeS6uTyVRlAH2fhXA7jRlP20xou4hTJDMoYF2pREtwl5XJkoYDo3-4AEYpK8kTJ6fT2QRQIQr-KmMHF47zGOz3U8weyc_T_/s320/IMG_2185.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The man who hand-prints cloths, and me</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxILNcLm-10csTT7ECDIUC6wq4pz0sRReyN149pkBn350lsyg2CBkHMOd-Ews7PNkhgQPlCzhhXpn1Cp713lXNq0xpngIIyaZW91IMOUIRBhkn2zPBr0u7L-0pp7-fY1CwDIeAtoEMtt87/s1600/IMG_2186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxILNcLm-10csTT7ECDIUC6wq4pz0sRReyN149pkBn350lsyg2CBkHMOd-Ews7PNkhgQPlCzhhXpn1Cp713lXNq0xpngIIyaZW91IMOUIRBhkn2zPBr0u7L-0pp7-fY1CwDIeAtoEMtt87/s320/IMG_2186.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px; text-align: center;"></div><div style="font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> See what I mean? Lovely man. 85 years old.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The flight from Esfahan to Tehran. I sit beside a man who wants to practice his french. But we end up speaking mostly in English (his french needs quite a bit of practice!). He is young, and works for a Chinese-owned tech company. He, too, is unafraid of saying how much he hopes for the end of the regime. He also says that it's a big risk to fly in Iran - it has the worst air safety record in the world. A result of the sanctions, he says. Iran can't buy new planes, so they end up with the world's second-hand dregs.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FNhBXwjekGVhyphenhyphenu8hATpQ2VEcIs9s2q-uHbF68d9z-pr093mfuJGtlZaDTSG64s7vwpSFld0oOVt4urv_i-CjBcoQX_EIFpGj9pYBVGQyop0Lk54hHPQW_14VhyHyAvo-POf7WA9DFwzl/s1600/IMG_1806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FNhBXwjekGVhyphenhyphenu8hATpQ2VEcIs9s2q-uHbF68d9z-pr093mfuJGtlZaDTSG64s7vwpSFld0oOVt4urv_i-CjBcoQX_EIFpGj9pYBVGQyop0Lk54hHPQW_14VhyHyAvo-POf7WA9DFwzl/s320/IMG_1806.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Central Iran</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">6)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> At the luggage carousel in Tehran (i make it), another man - early fifties, perhaps, comes up to chat. I realize I am, perhaps for the first time in my life, in a place where i am considered exotic! This man openly despises the regime, and says so. He calls them medieval. They cannot last, he says. Iran will rejoin the world. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">7)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I am met by N. and another Canadian/Iranian friend from Toronto, and go to N's place for dinner. N. calls the visual artist whose work I bought - Estabragh - and we speak, on speakerphone, with N. and L. translating. She is very young, and excited to have sold a piece. We're now Facebook friends - although her entire page is in Farsi! I chat with N. about his play - which I am determined to get produced in Toronto. I've been helping him correct his english (impressively, he has written the play in his second language). We will continue to work together. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc_m7PXw2PboJZUaEukOdzgBabkRLJJeAKRyDHW4mRMGyYlxO5x3-QhkDFvxVMBKvTwhqd9aHa8wAS76qf642tCwBMnuDYyq5ebx-jBT2x61Uq1rdTX5FncCQEihlXe4kygQHNtYo0NDNY/s1600/IMG_2187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc_m7PXw2PboJZUaEukOdzgBabkRLJJeAKRyDHW4mRMGyYlxO5x3-QhkDFvxVMBKvTwhqd9aHa8wAS76qf642tCwBMnuDYyq5ebx-jBT2x61Uq1rdTX5FncCQEihlXe4kygQHNtYo0NDNY/s320/IMG_2187.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">At dinner, with Estabragh on speakerphone...</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">8)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The flight out. A 45 minute drive to Imam Khomeini International. 5 hours to Frankfurt. 8.5 hours to Toronto. Back to winter. I have seen much in the past 13 days.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22baLrUbllTJL5CW-hhNAqKsZvbzi_IS17_5PSzF3ffKWkMCfWbW9zni5ALUnah09GhryY14MlgPbSkoJXO-fYdpjYQUxtEBvBxx_dAQbwgIKYyymCJrLQckmqpdimFSsSh41Ccw64Q2v/s1600/IMG_2189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22baLrUbllTJL5CW-hhNAqKsZvbzi_IS17_5PSzF3ffKWkMCfWbW9zni5ALUnah09GhryY14MlgPbSkoJXO-fYdpjYQUxtEBvBxx_dAQbwgIKYyymCJrLQckmqpdimFSsSh41Ccw64Q2v/s320/IMG_2189.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam Khomeini International Airport</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGPij-WgIQAaMxhSD3vbLb005GP-Azy6hiSeA3G9vjmtTnzH1VRgBDCZ0_BmMB3T2C6vz_NDF_3gKY_N-YILQdD-udbM0vBMVFFya4dFHzL03DJEmgNASxnnCKdk0exAaRShytL3cWM3J/s1600/IMG_2192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGPij-WgIQAaMxhSD3vbLb005GP-Azy6hiSeA3G9vjmtTnzH1VRgBDCZ0_BmMB3T2C6vz_NDF_3gKY_N-YILQdD-udbM0vBMVFFya4dFHzL03DJEmgNASxnnCKdk0exAaRShytL3cWM3J/s320/IMG_2192.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Frankfurt Airport - my ride home</span><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVe5Ha1bx7UGDG5q0rGR_C9eifgRGeAbtTKKWWOFe7MbpbIuzjvsTwuVzgesjKunYSSngKS6fjANXZOYUUA2Zow6JpjVulyBpelakSxob0_kyO2Lbgt6iKCicU7Fs2dgywzFsho7sXMmsA/s1600/IMG_2194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVe5Ha1bx7UGDG5q0rGR_C9eifgRGeAbtTKKWWOFe7MbpbIuzjvsTwuVzgesjKunYSSngKS6fjANXZOYUUA2Zow6JpjVulyBpelakSxob0_kyO2Lbgt6iKCicU7Fs2dgywzFsho7sXMmsA/s320/IMG_2194.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The view from my apartment. Toronto in February...</span><br />
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</span></div></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-8336410847592744352011-02-21T12:10:00.000-08:002011-03-18T08:45:44.837-07:00Doh Shambeh / My Last Night in Tehran<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlbGMo_YK2ZesORdFWAtmKBQCrkpHl_EXkitNQUUTHAjbBTVHy_-o77iAwe0mh80Aq58L2CMPCQ-3KYXEKkikDoLCF11-D_DQ9-VmenULF34NhRHHvznN9iIhxpOd_FsevbTMEGgXJVXE9/s1600/IMG_1585.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlbGMo_YK2ZesORdFWAtmKBQCrkpHl_EXkitNQUUTHAjbBTVHy_-o77iAwe0mh80Aq58L2CMPCQ-3KYXEKkikDoLCF11-D_DQ9-VmenULF34NhRHHvznN9iIhxpOd_FsevbTMEGgXJVXE9/s320/IMG_1585.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A few notes from yesterday:</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Before the final ceremony, I meet with a young Iranian theatre maker, S.B. A short but memorable meeting. She speaks of being a woman in Iran trying to make theatre, of troubles with censors, of the challenge of being a feminist in such a place, of not being allowed to stay in a theatre for her own technical rehearsal because women should go home at night. We chat about technology and theatre - she has just made the first real-time interactive high-tech show in Iranian theatre, and wants to send me the DVD for notes ("Be cruel", she says, seeking honest feedback). She speaks of her generation (she is about 29), of being born during the Iran Iraq war, and how that has produced a generation unlike any who came before - how she had an ulcer as a 4 year old, how she wondered anytime her father left their house, if she would see him again. This is the generation in the audiences I sit with, this is the generation using social media, and taking to the streets. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I also hear a story of the regime's secret police or militia, going into Tehran University and terrorizing the students - even hitting a Mullah who came to the students' aid. They were rounded up, and moved away as another group of young people was brought in - actors, impersonators. From this group were selected fake spokespeople who testified for TV cameras that they knew the student who died very well (Saneh Jaleh), and that he would never have been involved with the opposition. All this while the real friends, the real students, the opposition, were held at bay.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I attend the final ceremony. There is no sign of the demonstration happening tonight - it is raining, and the demonstration is not close to the theatre we are at. Only after do we hear of tear gas and attacks and potentially one dead. But in the giant and beautiful opera house - no longer used for opera, since opera is a decadent form of the West - are dignitaries and cameras galore. It's sum fancy. And, like most award shows, terrifically boring. Although one usually doesn't see an act about the birth of the prophet Mohammed, it still feels like the Doras… </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 15.8333px;">A couple hours in, I give my award (for best playwright). Then we get back in the bus, and go back to the hotel. We ALL want a beer, but alas…</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 15.8333px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNk52C5RKkspxq7Wpy647f4osWzVGrBm1_wkx7BrfIo-lj1IvGD1cXPc5F6X3qL_DtCl-pWYgJeJEflCkQnO5XVqxucmrLmmcJ8bxIkeFotgwb545RxPKv4SmvRSInQfshgK5PEarpwZEY/s1600/IMG_1748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNk52C5RKkspxq7Wpy647f4osWzVGrBm1_wkx7BrfIo-lj1IvGD1cXPc5F6X3qL_DtCl-pWYgJeJEflCkQnO5XVqxucmrLmmcJ8bxIkeFotgwb545RxPKv4SmvRSInQfshgK5PEarpwZEY/s320/IMG_1748.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Opera House interior - at the final ceremony for </span></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the 29th Fadjr international Theatre Festival</span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpOYEqNZxQcF0OQ90pDR182uyy1yO_2FieGLsFpZtQZ4YvyoaOXNJ734ze8pEshIh3NUZ6CZsZz4lfezx-AaJfkOxoj_2glA1hSbBC-bDED7IpeR_bR3QY3yHV7or0bhEq52b8AewRjkV8/s1600/IMG_1749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpOYEqNZxQcF0OQ90pDR182uyy1yO_2FieGLsFpZtQZ4YvyoaOXNJ734ze8pEshIh3NUZ6CZsZz4lfezx-AaJfkOxoj_2glA1hSbBC-bDED7IpeR_bR3QY3yHV7or0bhEq52b8AewRjkV8/s320/IMG_1749.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Jurors Andrea, Lambros and Mashoud</span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOytx0O54II6iXWw1Ne8e43rmHLrlOmo9uKtG22YfTq21Gk0bvSV5JN2x98ziSVuEnXWQsmU2NsdgLPOZU0TK7cBhPKoZecQt85M60DmGTHiXVAS2FqWiDtvHQPFP5-7MQL5OI-IbZ-R3/s1600/IMG_1761.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOytx0O54II6iXWw1Ne8e43rmHLrlOmo9uKtG22YfTq21Gk0bvSV5JN2x98ziSVuEnXWQsmU2NsdgLPOZU0TK7cBhPKoZecQt85M60DmGTHiXVAS2FqWiDtvHQPFP5-7MQL5OI-IbZ-R3/s320/IMG_1761.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">One of the acts at the final ceremony</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div></div></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Goodbyes are said. I am quite fond of the jurors I've been traipsing around Tehran with - Andrea Porcheddu and his wife, Daniela, from Italy; Prof. Lambros Liavas from Greece; Mashoud Raygan, from Iran. The other juror, Sayeed Kashanfallah, is never with us, socially. He is, I believe, pro-regime, or at least is able to work with them. Most of my time, in fact, is spent with the cool Italians and the learned Greek. Good people. </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7aY4GsaFc25d9-y3r4j-QZF47KIihrW5aTPUe1Uy9J6rQoeLo_6eytNC0l2f1fw_tpfVoydyJwGYGng5_GJdQcRx9ox-QB_qVow9iFhMzKEPqlW7cq22hGLnX-M6y0USBCueFbKu1DBB3/s1600/IMG_1734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7aY4GsaFc25d9-y3r4j-QZF47KIihrW5aTPUe1Uy9J6rQoeLo_6eytNC0l2f1fw_tpfVoydyJwGYGng5_GJdQcRx9ox-QB_qVow9iFhMzKEPqlW7cq22hGLnX-M6y0USBCueFbKu1DBB3/s320/IMG_1734.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Andrea, Mashoud, Lambros and me</span></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Off to pack. Off to sleep.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">6)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> In the morning, I travel to the city of Isfahan. My companion for this trip is Manuel Jose Alvarez, the programming director of the Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogata - the largest curated theatre festival in the world. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">7)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> At the airport, I sit beside a young man who speaks to me in broken English. His father was a hero of the Iran Iraq war, and so has managed to get him a short military service (4 months instead of 2 years). The young man clearly loves his family, and misses his mother. He is about to spend a two-week vacation together with them, and he is very happy. He speaks of America - I love America - so many people love america. When i say i am from Canada, he says "James Cameron". He loves the Terminator movies and Avatar. We speak of Ridley Scott. And we speak of Iran. He also is no fan of the regime. He speaks of the ancient history of Persia. He speaks of the potential of the country, and how he hopes things will get better. He himself has a degree in mechanical engineering, and he clearly loves that, too. He is a sweet, sweet man. </span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYBA7u3SdLMY1cRb41GbbYyiUiWfDT-LOta8Xakk-i9uqCG-Ft6fPup1Q6qm1jPSseOxqzG1RrFmiccjHjgDBzOoz3DQ-aZB2zApiNpqp931vbifzm6tSlMNkUdAqDFWWFeEf1P3WmAqH/s1600/IMG_1793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYBA7u3SdLMY1cRb41GbbYyiUiWfDT-LOta8Xakk-i9uqCG-Ft6fPup1Q6qm1jPSseOxqzG1RrFmiccjHjgDBzOoz3DQ-aZB2zApiNpqp931vbifzm6tSlMNkUdAqDFWWFeEf1P3WmAqH/s320/IMG_1793.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Mehrabad Airport, Tehran - for domestic flights, and, it seems, Mexican corn</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjIAZN6XpingVWtQipSlfg-yceP9ZDukjUU_1ZcSumoZB4g8P9Ym5AyTbCxTR385nbK0SEksDpPqWT5PDhwQiWCMmDjZzvr2xl5ZuesFG_OoErtuYiM1Q3TgYYXClfFzpoJt-EA8c9XCd/s1600/IMG_1795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjIAZN6XpingVWtQipSlfg-yceP9ZDukjUU_1ZcSumoZB4g8P9Ym5AyTbCxTR385nbK0SEksDpPqWT5PDhwQiWCMmDjZzvr2xl5ZuesFG_OoErtuYiM1Q3TgYYXClfFzpoJt-EA8c9XCd/s320/IMG_1795.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;">Mehrabad Airport, Tehran</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3E1nECexhMGut9EI5L4Y3MSlb4d7P0pOrDCIC-wObTnUxXejPOfE6VFqkwAGLZgYoIBtUSeIFK0BLIdBMi6QZk4DXICEEVQttSFfZsvUCueCvkur6-00eU_XK4gf9XuAbjFbWzNCMX4s/s1600/IMG_1798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3E1nECexhMGut9EI5L4Y3MSlb4d7P0pOrDCIC-wObTnUxXejPOfE6VFqkwAGLZgYoIBtUSeIFK0BLIdBMi6QZk4DXICEEVQttSFfZsvUCueCvkur6-00eU_XK4gf9XuAbjFbWzNCMX4s/s320/IMG_1798.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;">Mehrabad Airport, Tehran - good vibrations, by the prayer rooms</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFco_u9t0J_ELPf1lXtfwgqbYGDvtOhV9L6QAy3uSGeul_1dyMVs52YKRZLUeuqezt8cnyo15cn7-ArSTU_VkVQt-D0t78pRoXRT2mZeCrKaOYRHLmqIVHWXgdbJdSAjpkAa8UXhQVxwvB/s1600/IMG_1800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFco_u9t0J_ELPf1lXtfwgqbYGDvtOhV9L6QAy3uSGeul_1dyMVs52YKRZLUeuqezt8cnyo15cn7-ArSTU_VkVQt-D0t78pRoXRT2mZeCrKaOYRHLmqIVHWXgdbJdSAjpkAa8UXhQVxwvB/s320/IMG_1800.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">on the tarmac, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;">Mehrabad Airport, Tehran</span></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">8)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> We fly - after a loooooong wait in Tehran. Manuel and I are met by a soft-spoken guide named Iraj Honoraju.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">9)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Isfahan is astonishing - the opposite of Tehran (which Iraj calls a "garage"). The feeling is relaxed, the mosques and bridges and palaces and the bazaar are all breathtaking. This is a different Iran, and Iran of space and beauty. I will be here for part of tomorrow, then will begin the trek back to Toronto. I will fly to have dinner with N. in Tehran, and then catch a 3am flight to Frankfurt. I will bring many things back with me, among them a play White Rabbit/Red Rabbit - a play I hope to do in Toronto.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Once I'm out of the country, I'll blog a bit more about some of what happened to me, and others, in Tehran. And I'll add more photos, once I have a high speed connection. Thanks for reading.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">And now, to sleep...</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_UaeklUMvGvt1aMUnL6qjNFE2-KXysFI0KysiSOYkNamK6L4G-GXHyqtTfGmoE4wsfN36aJXUf2RCIl5C6Cs49cAInWNuGYrT6JFUvBnJFutBzP15PvtVltCxTH7TsEjmVyOm7ibfroG/s1600/WRRR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_UaeklUMvGvt1aMUnL6qjNFE2-KXysFI0KysiSOYkNamK6L4G-GXHyqtTfGmoE4wsfN36aJXUf2RCIl5C6Cs49cAInWNuGYrT6JFUvBnJFutBzP15PvtVltCxTH7TsEjmVyOm7ibfroG/s320/WRRR.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A preliminary poster design for the show</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></div></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-49116219830196221152011-02-20T05:03:00.001-08:002011-03-18T07:20:53.304-07:00Yek Shamebh / Final Day of Fadjr / Second Opposition Demonstration<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPvI44PSimN9vaVeNE0cY9vFimaJXXD4f6O_-MAA0-QZqm-Hvr5P9c6HDF5ogUP_aU5qOtg7PZM5ZqbzMIhh5wyLnGEl6maQzG6wcxjI9plaiDsl_73fl5PwvgXUbVBDvZkRTjJqpxTSYo/s1600/06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPvI44PSimN9vaVeNE0cY9vFimaJXXD4f6O_-MAA0-QZqm-Hvr5P9c6HDF5ogUP_aU5qOtg7PZM5ZqbzMIhh5wyLnGEl6maQzG6wcxjI9plaiDsl_73fl5PwvgXUbVBDvZkRTjJqpxTSYo/s320/06.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span> </span> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 15.8333px;">A photocomposite, by Babek Kazemi</span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: 15.8333px;"><br />
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<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The internet connection is very slow at the hotel, so I was up until 4am last night, blogging. I get up at 9:30, a little bleary.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> With N., I go back to the gallery in the north of the city. This time, the owner is there. She explains the lack of signage, and the unmarked door - they have to operate almost invisibly. They have been raided before, and fear it may happen again. Many of the artworks being made in Iran now cannot be displayed here - certainly not openly. She shows me more work - primarily photographic. Impressive, powerful works. She also shows me a series of original prints from the 19th century - a set of photos from the royal court of the Shah. This will be her next show.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I buy two pieces - the face of the woman (a piece I have added in photos on yesterday's entry), by Estabragh Mosavi Fard, and a gift-bearing Micky Mouse superimposed on a barren Iranian landscape, with smoke from a bomb drifting overhead, by Babak Kazemi. I love them. I also take the gallery's information, and hope I can connect them with a Toronto-based curator. If I return here, the curator wants to take me on an art-tour of Tehran. It is a wonderful morning spent with lovely people.</span><br />
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</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMkGDod5peLjeivQL94Zqsv9Nn8xQjUb2-Kv7ViqoLbRp52-8mCe28DjQFNMhEHCBNGOTuzW1N3DLo0B5OVGwlbpeXoADrLynk9kbTdTsa8LhOLrgHcTkwRJ_2rTp38m-4AdovwIvSn3r/s1600/IMG_1716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMkGDod5peLjeivQL94Zqsv9Nn8xQjUb2-Kv7ViqoLbRp52-8mCe28DjQFNMhEHCBNGOTuzW1N3DLo0B5OVGwlbpeXoADrLynk9kbTdTsa8LhOLrgHcTkwRJ_2rTp38m-4AdovwIvSn3r/s320/IMG_1716.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> We return the the hotel. Our taxi driver - a powerfully built man - is openly furious about the regime. He will be taking the afternoon off to march in the demonstration. On the drive back south, he points out the masses of motorcyle-driving Basij militia that are gathering. We see dozens and dozens of men on motorcycles by the side of the road - some in full riot gear (police), some in a mix of civilian and military gear (Basij). We see about one hundred men, waiting. We are passed at one point by at least twenty motorcycles bearing armed men. The taxi driver scoffs at them - saying they are not strong men, these Basij. He apologizes for the impression his country makes on me. He says he just wants to relax - he went outside Iran once for six months on a fake passport, and this was the only time he has ever been able to relax. He wants to be able to go to a disco. He wants to be able to hold his girlfriend's hand on the street. As we pay, he holds up the banknote with Khomeini on it, and hits the Ayatollah's face repeatedly, saying "I hate him, I hate him, I hate him". We shake hands. I wish him luck, and I don't think I have ever meant this so much.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Back at the hotel, I lunch with N., then begin to pack. Tomorrow, I go to Isfahan for an overnight visit. Then back to Tehran for dinner with N. and a Canadian Iranian friend, and then I will begin the trek back to Canada, a man with eyes opened wider. But still tonight - there is the final ceremony, and the demonstration, which, as I write this, will have begun.</span><br />
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</span></div></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-2640686223690489352011-02-18T21:55:00.001-08:002011-03-08T12:42:42.480-08:00Shambeh again (The Last Day of Theatre-going)<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"></span></div><div style="font-size: 15.8333px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihBxwqqVFeBiNiKsFwAS2v43LvAHYIMY7eCJTNrQMK3r5z9RLqamX0LbI1pKqII15-2bxJVuzCyWFfiLKOdFzjY2adQHvFxXvIvYidj16sNltf6Z0VX7ereC2Qveys2awBwi5tBmQznfEW/s1600/big_757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihBxwqqVFeBiNiKsFwAS2v43LvAHYIMY7eCJTNrQMK3r5z9RLqamX0LbI1pKqII15-2bxJVuzCyWFfiLKOdFzjY2adQHvFxXvIvYidj16sNltf6Z0VX7ereC2Qveys2awBwi5tBmQznfEW/s320/big_757.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="256" /></span></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A young woman, by Estabragh Mousavi Fard</span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">A</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">woke to receive an email from Avaaz asking for a donation to blackout-</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">proof the protests in the Middle East. Never have I been in a place where i have better understood the importance of communication. The link is here - i urge you, gentle reader, to </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">support this campaign: </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: TrebuchetMS;"><a href="https://secure.avaaz.org/en/blackout_proof_the_protests/?copy"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">https://secure.avaaz.org/en/blackout_proof_the_protests/?copy</span></a></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Another anti-regime demonstration is set for tomorrow - right about at the time that the final ceremony of the Fadjr Festival will take place. Art and life are existing side by side in a new way for me.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> Today is the last day of the festival programme. I will have seen 20 plays in 8 days from across Iran and 5 other countries (Germany, Estonia, South Korea, Czech Republic, Italy). Much of it has been political, in a roundabout, or sometimes not so roundabout way. Much of it has been sub-par, in terms of the level of most international festivals. But much of it is also young - university students making work with an incredible energy. Perhaps the most astounding aspect of this festival is its audience - masses and masses of young people - every performance is jammed, every performance has enormous line-ups. There is a hunger here for theatre that is unlike any place i've been. As Heiner Mueller once said, dictatorships are good for theatre.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> I meet zee Germans at breakfast. Wolfgang and Sven tell me of an added performance of an Iranian physical theatre show this afternoon at 3pm. For some reason, I decide to add this to my day.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> I meet N. and we go to an art gallery in North Central Tehran that specializes in young artists. I have read that Iranian visual art is among the hottest in the art world, and I see why. There is an energy, sophistication and power among these artists. I see some things that kind of blow me away. In a back room, I am also shown some photographs that are illegal in Iran - huge prints of nude women in chadors, posing in front of reproductions of Western Fine Art nudes, the Iranian women with eyes blacked out with rectangles, like criminals (the chadors covering all the naughty bits - but nonetheless...!). These are amazing. Other photos mix images of Disney with Iranian family photographs, other paintings are giant reproductions of world currencies, with other images juxtaposed on top (like a pair of red high heels where the Ayatollah's face should be). I decide to buy something (a powerful graphite of a young Iranian women - a face that could be from the audiences I've been in, or the demonstrations I've seen). I think about buying two. We will meet again tomorrow, and I'll see what I can afford. One amazing thing at this gallery is that one of the people who works there speaks very frankly about the art - some of the art he sells he doesn't like, and he explains why. It is refreshingly honest. The idea of Art trumps the idea of Selling. In this country - what you think, the quality of your thought, and the art you make from it, is all important. I am deeply impressed.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">6)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> I see the Iranian physical theatre show. Dumb ass wankery. zee Germans have led me astray!</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">7)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> I see two more shows. A Woyzeck from South Korea - a very physical, almost danced version. Extremely precise, inventive and a bit soulless. I appreciate the skill, while remaining unmoved. The next, and LAST (!!) show is from Iran, and is more interesting. It is an adaptation of a Lorca play about revolution in Spain. The main character is a woman whose lover is a resistance leader. He escapes, and she is captured, and tortured. The play is a very direct examination of revolution, and the progress towards this woman's choice to sacrifice her life, rather than lie for the sake of state propaganda - a choice that seems inevitable in the world that Lorca, and the Iranian adaptor, paint. A real-life choice made yesterday here by the brother of a dead protester echoes this exactly - a man chooses to tell the truth about his brother, that he was actually protesting the regime, not supporting it, and this wins him a trip to prison. Sitting in an audience of Iranians, on the eve of another banned mass protest in Iran, gives this drama a relevance that is haunting. Terrifying. Especially since one of the lives lost a few days ago was from this Drama faculty. Theatre does not get more political than this, and I wonder if more lives will be lost tomorrow - even from this very audience.</span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">8)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The jury now retires to deliberate. We are locked in a conference room at a building a few minutes' drive from the City Theatre. We are fed, and we hash out the winners, and nominees. Some of the choices are very easy, others difficult, and there is much debate. In the end, though, I think we make a fair selection. Tomorrow we will present the prizes, likely as tear gas is being used outside.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">9)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The foreign members of the jury return to the hotel at about 1am. We long for a beer, but settle for tea. Tomorrow is Sunday. What will happen, I wonder...</span></span></div></div></div></div><div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 15.8333px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67QEqqUlau8QlC18rmX9HxNtAvUswA_LPBK5drO1QwmTh0U-ACk8UwIb5q5RosbELmB-xtwRHWDsgtYvM6LFh04Cvt6ZHxqhXGxw2bofkYeVKUwBSK_uZfZ_pljWJxeltTFsVq7_xxRv7/s1600/IMG_1676.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67QEqqUlau8QlC18rmX9HxNtAvUswA_LPBK5drO1QwmTh0U-ACk8UwIb5q5RosbELmB-xtwRHWDsgtYvM6LFh04Cvt6ZHxqhXGxw2bofkYeVKUwBSK_uZfZ_pljWJxeltTFsVq7_xxRv7/s1600/IMG_1676.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">At a gallery in North Central Tehran</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQhaPcgOAs9rDeCeXg4N6LrvIN_736xeSvdB4PjQeED1mQehZ3gkilW80f1p0xWBsrTkN_-a5nctmycSO8-7gHYlsdOJux1h0CEhFJiQLWf5Zt8C5UL28oqiRXdPnJPglTwQ8FoQOpAgf5/s1600/IMG_1687.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQhaPcgOAs9rDeCeXg4N6LrvIN_736xeSvdB4PjQeED1mQehZ3gkilW80f1p0xWBsrTkN_-a5nctmycSO8-7gHYlsdOJux1h0CEhFJiQLWf5Zt8C5UL28oqiRXdPnJPglTwQ8FoQOpAgf5/s1600/IMG_1687.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The cast of the last show of the 29th Fadjr Festival takes a bow</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpsYs630NvGyZaSACGvP_uXKp4CYixHo0_fmiWNAudWIrhb-XQ6n71e45FJixVoT9i5ROKME2II_qVDpcj7V2_J5id-oPwIk5rPtTp6HMUyFSQRIjA0EKZM_uhWMkBGELyMqCyH4yE-BOL/s1600/IMG_1686.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpsYs630NvGyZaSACGvP_uXKp4CYixHo0_fmiWNAudWIrhb-XQ6n71e45FJixVoT9i5ROKME2II_qVDpcj7V2_J5id-oPwIk5rPtTp6HMUyFSQRIjA0EKZM_uhWMkBGELyMqCyH4yE-BOL/s1600/IMG_1686.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">New pal-o-mine, Anisa, on the eve of her departure</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvOOl6n5Wjp6BuN1vNszyiH9CcLSJ-teYsHNDOvDsG3ovcoSkqEFScVewk6QGY42sHLFkcQyvaVzR345aWnxCf_U3P5I996tLaBaf25vtZ7g2JsCi5Dx_Qi15PPAwpMr-cHEwdVLWxfpem/s1600/IMG_1693.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvOOl6n5Wjp6BuN1vNszyiH9CcLSJ-teYsHNDOvDsG3ovcoSkqEFScVewk6QGY42sHLFkcQyvaVzR345aWnxCf_U3P5I996tLaBaf25vtZ7g2JsCi5Dx_Qi15PPAwpMr-cHEwdVLWxfpem/s1600/IMG_1693.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The jury deliberates - Sayeed, N. and Mashoud</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTYO6AUdsi7KOsO5t2OpZlN_WM4w-5F0YUChtWsZnQmgTAFgHYj-pox9Xa71bxrgnSgrr0_SnOhzUxk_sp4tHx9JazrZNY210JnjFvnja5vVoHXzKPz6YozKUxZPZjNcAD8JUX_5ZnWcaE/s1600/IMG_1692.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTYO6AUdsi7KOsO5t2OpZlN_WM4w-5F0YUChtWsZnQmgTAFgHYj-pox9Xa71bxrgnSgrr0_SnOhzUxk_sp4tHx9JazrZNY210JnjFvnja5vVoHXzKPz6YozKUxZPZjNcAD8JUX_5ZnWcaE/s1600/IMG_1692.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Our translator, N., Lambros and Mashoud (sneaking a smoke)</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUUctFZT-Sp7zusOEgoxamDEhZAukaaoUej_27k1uZBh70F3WGsDgbT6Ij576NX2HFRZelNsi2m_rJqA-m2mCU64bQIrcYZRTYM825C1Kes_aKreqwMI9jUGvICHVkeYYZKHRrA8bza_hB/s1600/IMG_1691.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUUctFZT-Sp7zusOEgoxamDEhZAukaaoUej_27k1uZBh70F3WGsDgbT6Ij576NX2HFRZelNsi2m_rJqA-m2mCU64bQIrcYZRTYM825C1Kes_aKreqwMI9jUGvICHVkeYYZKHRrA8bza_hB/s1600/IMG_1691.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Andrea and yours truly</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></span></div></div></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-47620973803011373372011-02-18T21:50:00.000-08:002011-02-28T05:23:12.067-08:00Jo'Meh (Friday)<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu8lpL0B7pwFMhthDtP_bvB9ZS8fba36eU3zJ3saCf1RqZEfovOfW6bElOA5uuhse7eI02yIew8MFVXRXsj6TcMarvQwjE9gctTJURHgY_EUX2OifQgLOdS-rDI4n0Ey7QAkWT3Ef1kKr/s1600/IMG_1671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu8lpL0B7pwFMhthDtP_bvB9ZS8fba36eU3zJ3saCf1RqZEfovOfW6bElOA5uuhse7eI02yIew8MFVXRXsj6TcMarvQwjE9gctTJURHgY_EUX2OifQgLOdS-rDI4n0Ey7QAkWT3Ef1kKr/s320/IMG_1671.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Sven Till and Wolfgang Hoffman take a bow after Pandora 88 from Germany</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Today is the day of prayers in Islam, so the streets are remarkably traffic free, for the first part of the day. I have breakfast with zee Germans - Wolfgang Hoffman and Sven Till - whose show, Pandora 88, I will be seeing tonight. I know these guys from a while back. Wolfgang used to run Aurora Nova in Edinburgh, as well as the Dublin International Fringe (where Volcano, my company, took a show called The Four Horsemen Project). Sven is married to an old friend from Toronto, Heather MacCrimmon - they now live in Potsdam.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlI4b3VmPwweChj1V4nqoMb4gcnanAYQlJe7Wj6Q6IAjYLPrdgJWDA-btxwW0teym7_AlilzH-w5FSaDLkx1eb1wQQNkZUS_5iWjuJBgDWxBZBMztEbJ5vpZqkwEeGy9mvPP9Ty3_74Zki/s1600/IMG_1664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlI4b3VmPwweChj1V4nqoMb4gcnanAYQlJe7Wj6Q6IAjYLPrdgJWDA-btxwW0teym7_AlilzH-w5FSaDLkx1eb1wQQNkZUS_5iWjuJBgDWxBZBMztEbJ5vpZqkwEeGy9mvPP9Ty3_74Zki/s320/IMG_1664.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Gramophones for sale at the Jo'Meh Bazaar</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I go to the Jo'Meh Bazaar, or flea market, with my fellow jurors, Andrea and Lampros, and Nassim. This is a vast flea market in a parking garage, within walking distance of the hotel (the weather continues to be like spring - with wind blowing the usual pollution away). It's a bit overwhelming - everything from carpets to gramophones to books to jewellery to kitchen ware to furniture - and thousands of people. I think I'm too shell-shocked to buy anything. Something i regret, now that i'm writing this.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I hear nothing of today's protest until I return to my computer. The internet is up, and my fabulous girlfriend, Neema, has emailed me the latest news from Radiozameneh - a website that is blocked in Iran (</span></span><a href="http://www.radiozamaneh.com/english/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">http://www.radiozamaneh.com/english/</span></span></a><br />
<!--StartFragment--> <!--EndFragment--> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">). The pro-government demonstration apparently got violent, when it encountered a counter-demonstration that students at the Art University had set up. The classmates of the dead drama student, Saneh Jaleh, are upset that the regime has lied about his death - portraying him as a pro-government martyr. His brother, Ghaneh Jaleh, went on Voice of America to say as much. He was arrested shortly thereafter. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I see two more shows. Pandora 88, from Germany, is sublime. The theatre is like a sardine tin, packed to overflowing, with about 5 added rows of people sitting on the floor, spilling onto the stage, in front of the first row of seating. It is a movement theatre piece: two men and a box, which we look into as into an open elevator. We follow them from childhood through to adolescence and beyond - the box being their room, their sanctuary, their place to dream, and their prison - as they age. It is an enormously physical and inventive show - every inch of the confined space is explored physically - and the actor/dancers are wonderful. The crowd is moved (as am I), and the applause goes on and on - the performers - Wolfgang and Sven - visibly shocked, and themselves moved by how many bows they have to take. The next play, an Iranian show about a hair/makeup salon, is a middling university-level piece. There are some nice performances, but clumsy direction and a banal script (or so say some Persians I speak with). A shame - since this is a show that tackles the place of women in Iranian society - an extremely constrained place.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Home to a dinner with three Persian theatre artists and Andrea, my Italian co-juror. We speak of training, and how a famous Persian actor who was a student of Stanislavski essentially created modern Iranian drama -- Iran's own version of Lee Strasbourg and Stella Adler. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-79552302730461885392011-02-18T03:25:00.000-08:002011-03-08T14:58:50.689-08:00Photos of People<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzChyanvX6c2DsSmT1sF-cCsx51bSGhgk5L0jvfrFSoyUY5scVwbPJgsFAksjb92jZqlXpqsDcDQ-69GK-Qdh1GhNv6JPeJ-3v-B9K6j68jAT_ov7Gj7ECzcHKRPcKxUWTnJKJmM32dUR3/s1600/IMG_1668.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzChyanvX6c2DsSmT1sF-cCsx51bSGhgk5L0jvfrFSoyUY5scVwbPJgsFAksjb92jZqlXpqsDcDQ-69GK-Qdh1GhNv6JPeJ-3v-B9K6j68jAT_ov7Gj7ECzcHKRPcKxUWTnJKJmM32dUR3/s1600/IMG_1668.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fast Food</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZhU6kSAncWw6Tmh46DC3llLzmEU_OAJMREyPJYv94k66KO2cTq3_kPExQeKFd18xdm45QK1OvEawq9GnZZU5bpsvBszrfl9-Yqte4YSMAYLF7URb2hBAU-ocVU2n69jcjnZprjTBdrKW/s1600/IMG_1669.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZhU6kSAncWw6Tmh46DC3llLzmEU_OAJMREyPJYv94k66KO2cTq3_kPExQeKFd18xdm45QK1OvEawq9GnZZU5bpsvBszrfl9-Yqte4YSMAYLF7URb2hBAU-ocVU2n69jcjnZprjTBdrKW/s1600/IMG_1669.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A Popcorn Seller</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtKGCdkXgPUw0gyHRUuWrp-Y0loIe6kGvayyjvxiDYeR6IfrbE1rG9QBnorGRBG7lIp2lrzrImWaczawa6Hcu2AzjoiCN3p7bRrRmCGGjA3Voy1DGUGHdYx-wzqfdDG8LxxnO6PspOBlQ/s1600/IMG_1362.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtKGCdkXgPUw0gyHRUuWrp-Y0loIe6kGvayyjvxiDYeR6IfrbE1rG9QBnorGRBG7lIp2lrzrImWaczawa6Hcu2AzjoiCN3p7bRrRmCGGjA3Voy1DGUGHdYx-wzqfdDG8LxxnO6PspOBlQ/s1600/IMG_1362.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Me (foreground) with Andrea Porcheddu (fellow juror) and his wife, Daniele </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">on Imam Khomeini street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1zwrADKZJkUcMvqKijf95e-bczL-XVkV6Cd3jS1GR_eaFrTVTOCbzgac16tcGI-TB0AFV4hMw-39msfdHBkaw6gOwPM6eSXMXyVwm4CZt5EJKWcKsyOTR9RT0S7RpaTluThSnfcL4MIa/s1600/IMG_1386.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg1zwrADKZJkUcMvqKijf95e-bczL-XVkV6Cd3jS1GR_eaFrTVTOCbzgac16tcGI-TB0AFV4hMw-39msfdHBkaw6gOwPM6eSXMXyVwm4CZt5EJKWcKsyOTR9RT0S7RpaTluThSnfcL4MIa/s1600/IMG_1386.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Prof. Lampros Liavis, foreground, (fellow juror) on Ferdosi Street</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhJioL7XJwqJVK_vnwyTF62-9xk-5xgAVCzATpusMJFTtv32T5ZM-VI-0w211PX0wZATDuWLF8EmD6XcvlTQ6l5ysN1cX0cio3GmX4_hZtl5_pQ57OxioXOaPcEOrtGeq0OkaAPXqVw0rN/s1600/IMG_1604.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhJioL7XJwqJVK_vnwyTF62-9xk-5xgAVCzATpusMJFTtv32T5ZM-VI-0w211PX0wZATDuWLF8EmD6XcvlTQ6l5ysN1cX0cio3GmX4_hZtl5_pQ57OxioXOaPcEOrtGeq0OkaAPXqVw0rN/s1600/IMG_1604.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Children is a horse carriage near Golestan Palace</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm39I4YbpVAHZ_zsEM2rr6wPNO6kazZgyEbz1mTJs3ItwUwRowXjfviuNwHwhKHi16Khui-9cwOioWdxftjZ-Bt7lh1pJeL21Mm3Bq8MI6pEydScDtV5_dFwg8e1dDUv-2Jh3A6LweDRaa/s1600/IMG_1592.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm39I4YbpVAHZ_zsEM2rr6wPNO6kazZgyEbz1mTJs3ItwUwRowXjfviuNwHwhKHi16Khui-9cwOioWdxftjZ-Bt7lh1pJeL21Mm3Bq8MI6pEydScDtV5_dFwg8e1dDUv-2Jh3A6LweDRaa/s1600/IMG_1592.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Andrea, Mashoud Raigan (fellow juror) </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> e bella Monica (from the Syracuse Festival)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1MMlPdKeKX5sygt28k0D1S1sPscc7fXC_zyKTr6lZWMBf6F0QLAjqdJF42Z2Wfm7O0oKr_WWNPfxHTsDTul9KGJFPN-_-ZRF1gcEMzP1KDWkM5877YaJX59Xk7mur1oZ8na1mPNmy0mb/s1600/IMG_1615.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1MMlPdKeKX5sygt28k0D1S1sPscc7fXC_zyKTr6lZWMBf6F0QLAjqdJF42Z2Wfm7O0oKr_WWNPfxHTsDTul9KGJFPN-_-ZRF1gcEMzP1KDWkM5877YaJX59Xk7mur1oZ8na1mPNmy0mb/s1600/IMG_1615.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Nasser el-Din Shah, or his effigy on his tomb, </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">at the Golestan Palace</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMnIWFuBYKLNVDcTk04fvWjiEwRTtTIH17aLRJXi0xu3aadiqQAZpjOSVZ732WFKwko1ANTu_Xd2YPrFy24e1Wv_JI8lcMEjQbP5_XoACGHDKkGEkOYCOpU_iudvTIoO0y9d81jwmzMX-P/s1600/IMG_1645.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMnIWFuBYKLNVDcTk04fvWjiEwRTtTIH17aLRJXi0xu3aadiqQAZpjOSVZ732WFKwko1ANTu_Xd2YPrFy24e1Wv_JI8lcMEjQbP5_XoACGHDKkGEkOYCOpU_iudvTIoO0y9d81jwmzMX-P/s1600/IMG_1645.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ross at the Golestan Palace complex</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-DU_KL-AdDmxKmiM08mJWZjUDxyZNEojWI9bPHK5H0Ng5EpXjUcfA5Sp3rDPBRZ5aywiAvk_0OCuB_wpjKZ2OPFFwsjpC0-Ey0sXAS8rOch87zBSwaMpB1qUW1FikdBg3GdeATmeWb9K/s1600/IMG_1644.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-DU_KL-AdDmxKmiM08mJWZjUDxyZNEojWI9bPHK5H0Ng5EpXjUcfA5Sp3rDPBRZ5aywiAvk_0OCuB_wpjKZ2OPFFwsjpC0-Ey0sXAS8rOch87zBSwaMpB1qUW1FikdBg3GdeATmeWb9K/s1600/IMG_1644.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Fellow juror Lampros inside one of the mirror rooms at Golestan</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52EsfUBFA-rQikg2llBUksea2UXeo_xie_MREn7gz_QodPkbZ9lIY2a4OOZKf37Kg2q7uyDq75XqP7bS5NmBWuu6dVb3g3AjPVlMwg6KkkkFxQJUhW8jDJ6GNPu-DmiMm5M1TNhp8H9NE/s1600/IMG_1639.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52EsfUBFA-rQikg2llBUksea2UXeo_xie_MREn7gz_QodPkbZ9lIY2a4OOZKf37Kg2q7uyDq75XqP7bS5NmBWuu6dVb3g3AjPVlMwg6KkkkFxQJUhW8jDJ6GNPu-DmiMm5M1TNhp8H9NE/s1600/IMG_1639.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street Performers, Golestan Palace</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYm1-yMonPFCJ9hRr31oqaNiFXEkGgIDPoQ-FAmQKOC5W6d4AjE5hqTRsnbTGxIbajylMM616VdbTVcOccEx8JMqMkBdMEbLJZLHXD-ID0NU-2_M419dD2ybF5jhTjjOUG8m527U4bE9_u/s1600/IMG_1597.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYm1-yMonPFCJ9hRr31oqaNiFXEkGgIDPoQ-FAmQKOC5W6d4AjE5hqTRsnbTGxIbajylMM616VdbTVcOccEx8JMqMkBdMEbLJZLHXD-ID0NU-2_M419dD2ybF5jhTjjOUG8m527U4bE9_u/s1600/IMG_1597.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A crooner from one of the Italian shows at the festival, </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">at the Italian Cultural Attaché's birthday party</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLdKQtYam4shQIDC4ilLYXGi5C6-YfFjgOfQv7PSx2clwPM8HfvqqXYJqJSwF13JjDEFbDxwQJZRtkXU4GeveJNyQf8S3cgFy1CyTR8r5THoGWg1ePdAbBbK170PI6org7rjpuMUaCChw/s1600/IMG_1602.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLdKQtYam4shQIDC4ilLYXGi5C6-YfFjgOfQv7PSx2clwPM8HfvqqXYJqJSwF13JjDEFbDxwQJZRtkXU4GeveJNyQf8S3cgFy1CyTR8r5THoGWg1ePdAbBbK170PI6org7rjpuMUaCChw/s1600/IMG_1602.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">White Rabbit Red Rabbit calls for audience participation, and a photo </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">- this is the group that came up to be "white rabbits"</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeFQAAJ5zDPu-HD9WshmmSOhRq9hlGKtDm6m5hmE-GWt7QPvJx5zKqY3YTwS1P2caa4RD-6RunI5WtGzDznqxC0LJ8XsOiHo1VfKeSoQnSWNlZsfBKJzYqu0SHY2QX_OFIhp28fuMHfD8/s1600/IMG_1583.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeFQAAJ5zDPu-HD9WshmmSOhRq9hlGKtDm6m5hmE-GWt7QPvJx5zKqY3YTwS1P2caa4RD-6RunI5WtGzDznqxC0LJ8XsOiHo1VfKeSoQnSWNlZsfBKJzYqu0SHY2QX_OFIhp28fuMHfD8/s1600/IMG_1583.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The wife of the Italian cultural attaché and Daniele at the birthday party</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNIJtUK0RQx_ayXH5HL6HxyjmdC7C48WZfMPZH1S2s6bpRVQWQgtn893LtGjzVMYaIpIgDQB_Zl8mKHHdMeb-HHrgBKhL7_Q0z9zmpB1QKG6BqXoZFNBPZcOvEDL3SSfdjqW-0YyqqMopn/s1600/IMG_1531.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNIJtUK0RQx_ayXH5HL6HxyjmdC7C48WZfMPZH1S2s6bpRVQWQgtn893LtGjzVMYaIpIgDQB_Zl8mKHHdMeb-HHrgBKhL7_Q0z9zmpB1QKG6BqXoZFNBPZcOvEDL3SSfdjqW-0YyqqMopn/s1600/IMG_1531.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the street, Tehran</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU-vaXUrbPH1JUxjlWoVp5elcuOzgJLCTUX4K5ppFJUnXnH_OfB9ouaN8DmrSZx-ox16trXD9nrDAkJW_A1YbYZwxz7v_LIsOlPt9L0zIpCvKo7b-W6Cw1urx1eQomLwEp0Jo1kaUntobk/s1600/IMG_1521.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU-vaXUrbPH1JUxjlWoVp5elcuOzgJLCTUX4K5ppFJUnXnH_OfB9ouaN8DmrSZx-ox16trXD9nrDAkJW_A1YbYZwxz7v_LIsOlPt9L0zIpCvKo7b-W6Cw1urx1eQomLwEp0Jo1kaUntobk/s1600/IMG_1521.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the street, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj635V-we6JyP5jCurElxt9m2CuGeizx-b5NGQvViCpvKbZtqwdhUGMmOdMIPSMbWOk5KuS1o1ioLsrtemdrBSUb7nFXs8W9424-1fc26rkkS7-3mW5ecCRLxOPQpHB4o63aGzUqRrlkcum/s1600/IMG_1658.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj635V-we6JyP5jCurElxt9m2CuGeizx-b5NGQvViCpvKbZtqwdhUGMmOdMIPSMbWOk5KuS1o1ioLsrtemdrBSUb7nFXs8W9424-1fc26rkkS7-3mW5ecCRLxOPQpHB4o63aGzUqRrlkcum/s1600/IMG_1658.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Estonians taking a bow</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGS1VXbxdqthFaOk-Wtpnvl_FNFirdZI4ZNJ6SI-zEGZrkc6ayt2I-DdDV7Z3FVztj3MNy7HZb8X_iutJoIeZXhSQX-3y91O2fRhCkO_JV-U1CcE-h79PjcPpXAyYtd2uDgKkoiryR8Uo9/s1600/IMG_1373.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGS1VXbxdqthFaOk-Wtpnvl_FNFirdZI4ZNJ6SI-zEGZrkc6ayt2I-DdDV7Z3FVztj3MNy7HZb8X_iutJoIeZXhSQX-3y91O2fRhCkO_JV-U1CcE-h79PjcPpXAyYtd2uDgKkoiryR8Uo9/s1600/IMG_1373.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the street, Tehran</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOXa07szfDy2ZGLTUHnSbjCdBT2y0rv4s04I3Fnu_ybPmIPtN7LDHWN-i-qlbzc81mxQ6Qt6ROHlKucUBJsin47YBU2S4_KbyOfEyedAWTw_FXBppmc5GY_kWAlBBLMxqUgugGD21tbu1/s1600/IMG_1374.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOXa07szfDy2ZGLTUHnSbjCdBT2y0rv4s04I3Fnu_ybPmIPtN7LDHWN-i-qlbzc81mxQ6Qt6ROHlKucUBJsin47YBU2S4_KbyOfEyedAWTw_FXBppmc5GY_kWAlBBLMxqUgugGD21tbu1/s1600/IMG_1374.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the street, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH12dOh8-4JemceEbjkn1wFKSQafvJVmXVfp0GKQBC3cMHmnbrOValLGvNZ7P47eNAseuY7EUeACmCawTm9bbW0i34rdHfZ9kyy1XpNBInV7W82nKoJLMAwIAV2s18hKjFS_SYbpbdFybH/s1600/IMG_1499.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH12dOh8-4JemceEbjkn1wFKSQafvJVmXVfp0GKQBC3cMHmnbrOValLGvNZ7P47eNAseuY7EUeACmCawTm9bbW0i34rdHfZ9kyy1XpNBInV7W82nKoJLMAwIAV2s18hKjFS_SYbpbdFybH/s1600/IMG_1499.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Watching the Bahman 25 protest from an office in the City Theatre, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8fgg1abqE26UJNf9tx9AMAzegJ8L7aY8_z9EE9KMGhwltwjn4s69bpQ5yvzRFoX8rFksKHwh1ouJCyfeF2qFhl0_5r_2Gl1LH-OM79nl1PVln5CiUp1WIGKXNUSrK_EIiShApqfpYXgEw/s1600/IMG_1375.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8fgg1abqE26UJNf9tx9AMAzegJ8L7aY8_z9EE9KMGhwltwjn4s69bpQ5yvzRFoX8rFksKHwh1ouJCyfeF2qFhl0_5r_2Gl1LH-OM79nl1PVln5CiUp1WIGKXNUSrK_EIiShApqfpYXgEw/s1600/IMG_1375.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the street, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwCYkDIpWnVJ_bClI04C8JJtAD1coqV8JrOzlndFVw1AKi6dJYFo7uRsg0WHVPSh6EMjhIgaM1dio-kUgGhYO97Jtt7ys5uKKTEnl32PJKbYPjEvJpkuEcseomtE4P1ikdqmajDQUy6Mw/s1600/IMG_1650.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwCYkDIpWnVJ_bClI04C8JJtAD1coqV8JrOzlndFVw1AKi6dJYFo7uRsg0WHVPSh6EMjhIgaM1dio-kUgGhYO97Jtt7ys5uKKTEnl32PJKbYPjEvJpkuEcseomtE4P1ikdqmajDQUy6Mw/s1600/IMG_1650.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Eating Dizi</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBdSJmylv7DiVXW9nTucWGQhS_9XLJA658EdK3mWRfvxX39ys_uOdlO_hni1qbpsXtGwm3D5Yi7rWbqKsmYnDDJ1r1OtXIs4tVczQMLt2sgDsgcsJySROOEzhFtu6_obBO06stcA5vavjP/s1600/IMG_1591.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBdSJmylv7DiVXW9nTucWGQhS_9XLJA658EdK3mWRfvxX39ys_uOdlO_hni1qbpsXtGwm3D5Yi7rWbqKsmYnDDJ1r1OtXIs4tVczQMLt2sgDsgcsJySROOEzhFtu6_obBO06stcA5vavjP/s1600/IMG_1591.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Greek cultural attaché in a lobby at the festival. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiPPJrzmFSgiakr1fu31Z7aZG8IN1QbIOZDkoeg-8REyzrgrTM3zcuYx7QCY4jaeN3L-kz55ATw1mijyO8H_TtzzewK1tZ7-d2S2R9epEeu_mfspxqRfNAHO_C9MS62ncU8BEqrg5Z1sz/s1600/IMG_1447.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiPPJrzmFSgiakr1fu31Z7aZG8IN1QbIOZDkoeg-8REyzrgrTM3zcuYx7QCY4jaeN3L-kz55ATw1mijyO8H_TtzzewK1tZ7-d2S2R9epEeu_mfspxqRfNAHO_C9MS62ncU8BEqrg5Z1sz/s1600/IMG_1447.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Woman in a student café</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY03T9FFse9MC0Li_4C9DAzN0sCkNKDL4LoXCOKL4c-TgfDiczc6Rvx59QlJ1ZlsjBTIjW0PfgTxTBMp3p-8ALmP4XaD3dXphG0f05u0plmVf5a_VrL2CDlPuRsaWKs0CjvQwJ4GjbhhOJ/s1600/IMG_1515.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY03T9FFse9MC0Li_4C9DAzN0sCkNKDL4LoXCOKL4c-TgfDiczc6Rvx59QlJ1ZlsjBTIjW0PfgTxTBMp3p-8ALmP4XaD3dXphG0f05u0plmVf5a_VrL2CDlPuRsaWKs0CjvQwJ4GjbhhOJ/s1600/IMG_1515.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Iranian Bouffons taking a bow</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghK1aS6ir18HAUPWOzcB1Sq6VQ5d-0QNtX_pRal2kUXD_U4U2DPzM_22tsYATksf12yW-NqGEBKTMiIKiNs1qq8wXgINu9YRXAk4DeeODTQiJHJjL8O_6_xSbK87WLgxoJnOMSs1FtoJeh/s1600/IMG_1829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghK1aS6ir18HAUPWOzcB1Sq6VQ5d-0QNtX_pRal2kUXD_U4U2DPzM_22tsYATksf12yW-NqGEBKTMiIKiNs1qq8wXgINu9YRXAk4DeeODTQiJHJjL8O_6_xSbK87WLgxoJnOMSs1FtoJeh/s320/IMG_1829.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Mother and Child, Isfahan</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrdlbF9LqLc_5zBv1RxUYZ59JYsgITj2kSaDX3hMVaL3nZmrKCpx2zzLiJQ-xjUnQibZ8ZQFfP16mj67ZbOt7nto5CGNzvVXV6KBUso8uM6q76mM0vlwgYPfmFG5f_vFkca56DgcdGOFn6/s1600/IMG_1839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrdlbF9LqLc_5zBv1RxUYZ59JYsgITj2kSaDX3hMVaL3nZmrKCpx2zzLiJQ-xjUnQibZ8ZQFfP16mj67ZbOt7nto5CGNzvVXV6KBUso8uM6q76mM0vlwgYPfmFG5f_vFkca56DgcdGOFn6/s320/IMG_1839.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Manuel Alvarez (Colombian theatre presenter) and Iraj Honarju (Iranian guide), in Isfahan</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY95LkmhjHx44uhbz2Ok9PxuMNnYh4GEtwp91N9Dn9DcO4oUqjOBmOiy2VTMLgI8E7mrsRbyQOki7_aKdAUxseHa4E_XubJ_VZlyz5228cSBfhoSy_imHzNZ_zsyZ1H4GF3H5C2FI05VkW/s1600/IMG_2180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY95LkmhjHx44uhbz2Ok9PxuMNnYh4GEtwp91N9Dn9DcO4oUqjOBmOiy2VTMLgI8E7mrsRbyQOki7_aKdAUxseHa4E_XubJ_VZlyz5228cSBfhoSy_imHzNZ_zsyZ1H4GF3H5C2FI05VkW/s320/IMG_2180.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> School Kids by the Wobbly Minarets, Isfahan</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjll-fyecd_iRLHAF3MYxIzCSnbsP7geRkiFMf5dfHgY02yepJHSnweDbFVImfxFniyp8NCEeODcH1LwFZNqpdxNNOEDT8Qm-rp9N4HJKi_S4aaxo_3JFMatJR8wiJzMiRLYpV2xwhMTIkc/s1600/IMG_2184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjll-fyecd_iRLHAF3MYxIzCSnbsP7geRkiFMf5dfHgY02yepJHSnweDbFVImfxFniyp8NCEeODcH1LwFZNqpdxNNOEDT8Qm-rp9N4HJKi_S4aaxo_3JFMatJR8wiJzMiRLYpV2xwhMTIkc/s320/IMG_2184.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">My favourite oldster, Isfahan Bazaar</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqreC0QmSiYtNDFUMsYfRMWrZ2p3Vh-LVp3JXf3qVF44add0qDh1Nv8t4z8Vi0TwduycXX1bWJFVk4ziPYVtwQWvpqNlo4vZF8PSWj-ehiZUitY05vu56sb61P3Ldcc9-xPTG6tiXClutS/s1600/IMG_2097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqreC0QmSiYtNDFUMsYfRMWrZ2p3Vh-LVp3JXf3qVF44add0qDh1Nv8t4z8Vi0TwduycXX1bWJFVk4ziPYVtwQWvpqNlo4vZF8PSWj-ehiZUitY05vu56sb61P3Ldcc9-xPTG6tiXClutS/s320/IMG_2097.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Iraj explains enamelling</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdLsNA0OMHQPqQQXPFyX19gB2CE1c0njAMBvA7UGF4M3AO91ZSpyWX-jE9abI02cx9FFGDi7YhDG1nY7MkpIOgowFsU5IcO_aAxFTHSm9rnvoQo0rRIk-OmQMUf_NafKV0SIr9vskulv7/s1600/IMG_2188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdLsNA0OMHQPqQQXPFyX19gB2CE1c0njAMBvA7UGF4M3AO91ZSpyWX-jE9abI02cx9FFGDi7YhDG1nY7MkpIOgowFsU5IcO_aAxFTHSm9rnvoQo0rRIk-OmQMUf_NafKV0SIr9vskulv7/s320/IMG_2188.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdLsNA0OMHQPqQQXPFyX19gB2CE1c0njAMBvA7UGF4M3AO91ZSpyWX-jE9abI02cx9FFGDi7YhDG1nY7MkpIOgowFsU5IcO_aAxFTHSm9rnvoQo0rRIk-OmQMUf_NafKV0SIr9vskulv7/s1600/IMG_2188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Real Persian Cuisine!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QEs5cb6IVoGI7n-p52J6ky_dLh4F4_AFEOxVhQ9it-PK0_ETQ89cdlxrwLWMotdQ1HRymqBuaU4j6yeR774GYLjbW4e2dw36vr-daNPwWLEraGEwKQnaKBO3jgxtQ9Pn6vI2_m8hJUMx/s1600/IMG_1633.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QEs5cb6IVoGI7n-p52J6ky_dLh4F4_AFEOxVhQ9it-PK0_ETQ89cdlxrwLWMotdQ1HRymqBuaU4j6yeR774GYLjbW4e2dw36vr-daNPwWLEraGEwKQnaKBO3jgxtQ9Pn6vI2_m8hJUMx/s1600/IMG_1633.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In a hall of mirrors</span></div><div><br />
</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-13923226037746986642011-02-18T02:20:00.001-08:002011-02-26T17:00:53.479-08:00Panj Shambeh, Part Two<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span><br />
<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Ok. The internet has been down for about 12 hours, while the pro-government Hatred Demonstration went forward. It's back up now. I hear there are calls for another anti-government demonstration on Sunday - the final day of the festival. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Here is the post I wrote last night, and was unable to get up until now:</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div></div><div style="font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">*</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Three plays tonight.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">1)</span> An Iranian puppet version of the House of Bernarda Alba. There is a strong puppet tradition in Persia, but this is an innovative production within that tradition. The puppeteers are dressed in the same costumes as the puppets, and at times become the characters, and the puppets become dolls. There are three pupeteers, identically dressed - as are most of the puppets - all with full face masks that are actually faceless, except for a painted black cross where the nose and eyes should be. The puppets have this same mask. Sometimes the a puppeteer wielding a puppet is herself puppeted by another puppeteer. It is an intricate shifting of characters from body to body, and it is quite wonderful. The downfall is that all the voices are sound cues, and the sound system is not good. Plus, the lack of live voices distances the play from us, instead of bringing it closer. Still - I have never seen anything like this.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">2)</span> Perhaps one of the worst, most painful-to-sit-through travesties I have ever seen. The less said, the better.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">3)</span> Antigone. This is in the main hall of the CIty Theatre, which seats about 800, i'd guess. And it's packed. The aisles are packed. Every free inch is packed (there seems to be no fire marshall in Iran). This is a free adaptation of Antigone - a clown version, using some very precise Estonian actors (obviously with some good Eastern European physical training). The director/adaptor is a young Iranian. It is slow going - the show takes its time - perhaps a little too much time. But I warm to it - and the obvious overtones between Creon's time, and the Ayatollah's time, really hit in this very absurd take. As the curtain song plays (I Will Survive!), the audience goes nuts. Cheering, clapping - I have not seen a response like this in Tehran yet. It is thrilling.</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Then a milkshake (standing in for a beer) with the American/British friend I've made here, at a nearby cafe decorated with pictures of Samuel Beckett, and populated by young people. </span></div><div style="font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 19px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A long day, with a good finish. Tomorrow is the Day of Hate towards the opposition and all things foreign. I won't be near it, I don't think. Best to stay away from that one…</span></div><div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px;"></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-43687842743376242602011-02-17T04:11:00.000-08:002011-03-08T15:00:00.182-08:00Panj Shambeh (Thursday)<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLdKQtYam4shQIDC4ilLYXGi5C6-YfFjgOfQv7PSx2clwPM8HfvqqXYJqJSwF13JjDEFbDxwQJZRtkXU4GeveJNyQf8S3cgFy1CyTR8r5THoGWg1ePdAbBbK170PI6org7rjpuMUaCChw/s1600/IMG_1602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqLdKQtYam4shQIDC4ilLYXGi5C6-YfFjgOfQv7PSx2clwPM8HfvqqXYJqJSwF13JjDEFbDxwQJZRtkXU4GeveJNyQf8S3cgFy1CyTR8r5THoGWg1ePdAbBbK170PI6org7rjpuMUaCChw/s320/IMG_1602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Run-through of White Rabbit, Red Rabbit</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">1)</span> Went to a rehearsal for a play. This is prep for a tour to New York next month. It's good. Speaks from a young Iranian point of view in a very interesting way, and could easily be part of the new British wave of writing, in terms of innovation (a la Tim Crouch). I want to bring it to Toronto. Rubenfeld - you reading this?</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">2) </span>Tomorrow there is another demonstration scheduled - this time by the government, to demonstrate hatred towards the opposition. Yes, that's right: "Hatred". Someone here told me that George Orwell was too naive with 1984. He should have have had the chance to visit contemporary Iran before his first draft. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">3)</span> A play last night ran afoul of the censor, apparently (too much of a woman's ankle was showing). The director is an Iranian, who worked for months with Estonian actors to build the show. At the half hour, the censor asked for changes. The director refused, and gave a curtain speech beforehand: "If you want to ban this production, do it. But this is my work, and I will not change it." I've heard this secondhand, and am scheduled to see this show tonight - if it's on, that is. Perhaps you've heard of it: Antigone. I'm not sure if the censor's name was Creon...</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">4)</span> Spent the afternoon at the Golestan Palace wandering around. A 19th Century Persian Baroque palace - beautiful rooms with mosaics made of mirrors, hand-painted tilework, and paintings of European kings and queens. The weather is like Spring today, and the wind has blown the pollution away. "It reminds me of Shiraz", says N. We eat a lunch of Dizi - a traditional dish, that requires one to wield a pestle, and drink Doogh - a yogourt, salt and mint drink. Tasty. </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Off to see more plays now...</span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-64656923437892643682011-02-16T15:11:00.000-08:002011-02-28T06:11:25.307-08:00On the streets of Tehran - Photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGq7q9HWTZyvT73tV0qDve8TYxZrqN4mNXRA7TaVAFbg_iVQ7bKgqAXh0LxuyJTryJb3iyhlse3Bmun61omV1il_75VflXZFbepirX4RVCi-v-IWq7O3Si88-3ANO5q9ABo-gBwOdrKCQQ/s1600/IMG_1430.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGq7q9HWTZyvT73tV0qDve8TYxZrqN4mNXRA7TaVAFbg_iVQ7bKgqAXh0LxuyJTryJb3iyhlse3Bmun61omV1il_75VflXZFbepirX4RVCi-v-IWq7O3Si88-3ANO5q9ABo-gBwOdrKCQQ/s1600/IMG_1430.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Big Brother</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1lfieaWEjVV8XXasKndLfkxZmahccpSNMb97aHr87cvOkoKKo2pR5gR86C4fQJycXvxkcAV5sjVRurack2OJ63ES-nyzxD1H_qjt-l0JX5YUjrpJeMS7A-Zure2tC3qWZniQ1sCtab6T/s1600/IMG_1371.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1lfieaWEjVV8XXasKndLfkxZmahccpSNMb97aHr87cvOkoKKo2pR5gR86C4fQJycXvxkcAV5sjVRurack2OJ63ES-nyzxD1H_qjt-l0JX5YUjrpJeMS7A-Zure2tC3qWZniQ1sCtab6T/s1600/IMG_1371.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Big Bother</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUoMMEVXEshd9PllzWgoTgVppZ7AplEjWcRqsSjz_SV0a8Ta0713z8esnrC_yh3ZbBp9IVKZIiQtSDM5thK8hnZ9QAiLefVbZ1p_oFpCOnJHSoWcegFPMc4bKhNCUZdmvn-rwksluui4j/s1600/IMG_1518.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUoMMEVXEshd9PllzWgoTgVppZ7AplEjWcRqsSjz_SV0a8Ta0713z8esnrC_yh3ZbBp9IVKZIiQtSDM5thK8hnZ9QAiLefVbZ1p_oFpCOnJHSoWcegFPMc4bKhNCUZdmvn-rwksluui4j/s1600/IMG_1518.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Near Imam Khomeini Square</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalwaj_DO4vz1AFqJrIRIVB4mRTN-TAcRjFb97mB7fHla_Ip7moXThJpzoujePxamockY0NUFwrZG0TJnnb6xJjAiG55d0ZZ-l0FpVuLoqJtKYkRvMOZQTIdsWIEHCtXC8OJUchyphenhyphenklTY-H/s1600/IMG_1568.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalwaj_DO4vz1AFqJrIRIVB4mRTN-TAcRjFb97mB7fHla_Ip7moXThJpzoujePxamockY0NUFwrZG0TJnnb6xJjAiG55d0ZZ-l0FpVuLoqJtKYkRvMOZQTIdsWIEHCtXC8OJUchyphenhyphenklTY-H/s1600/IMG_1568.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Looking North</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdfrLmVAbGJq5YjVpx5DzG-furYDPQTi0ss8vuLAaZQvb6t4V767ODQoUGo3QjjQNoDOtfZCA8oicnSWUGDcIOkMlqbDL7Fs7VgZEv4H1Yn15YUM4-ontc3R0qqMYeAxB7NQPCbf0wIfA/s1600/IMG_1569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHdfrLmVAbGJq5YjVpx5DzG-furYDPQTi0ss8vuLAaZQvb6t4V767ODQoUGo3QjjQNoDOtfZCA8oicnSWUGDcIOkMlqbDL7Fs7VgZEv4H1Yn15YUM4-ontc3R0qqMYeAxB7NQPCbf0wIfA/s320/IMG_1569.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Near Golestan Palace</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8I-TtVwn0Pq6xFhMHFUJP4Llis0I6Url3ErjP4Gda9CiEe857B8-LJH_z_j4Hi6jnbMCh-ruJKrdCZ603ADqeC8OW3BUWpZKI21dPca2N5SegJu_wFNAT2lZtzHbFJcAG7nDCFGftq6bL/s1600/IMG_1426.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8I-TtVwn0Pq6xFhMHFUJP4Llis0I6Url3ErjP4Gda9CiEe857B8-LJH_z_j4Hi6jnbMCh-ruJKrdCZ603ADqeC8OW3BUWpZKI21dPca2N5SegJu_wFNAT2lZtzHbFJcAG7nDCFGftq6bL/s1600/IMG_1426.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">North Central Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz1ElwQPM62z4CZ6HT1pbDEUwYt_j-0gk2ZBWaSvmhXvheINmSlvuLJWy1eTx4H654jsRhKujtizp7lducHIkQAiePxw64fdnCQGR3PWh4MJfhcmnocdyrm6IuBjFMVR0LA0afw6B1atAQ/s1600/IMG_1561.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz1ElwQPM62z4CZ6HT1pbDEUwYt_j-0gk2ZBWaSvmhXvheINmSlvuLJWy1eTx4H654jsRhKujtizp7lducHIkQAiePxw64fdnCQGR3PWh4MJfhcmnocdyrm6IuBjFMVR0LA0afw6B1atAQ/s1600/IMG_1561.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Imam in motion</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdW03kiolxpftMbA1BbXiaQRU4nBB9bhfSDOzdLrTRtx1YHedISITyvw_oNOKX8mUsgvBEvE9ak_E07ebQvt52WQOkbmRBXDNQI0HCz-A15nWq02D8WSHfZWZ07ydxEX487KEtGUFn15i/s1600/IMG_1438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdW03kiolxpftMbA1BbXiaQRU4nBB9bhfSDOzdLrTRtx1YHedISITyvw_oNOKX8mUsgvBEvE9ak_E07ebQvt52WQOkbmRBXDNQI0HCz-A15nWq02D8WSHfZWZ07ydxEX487KEtGUFn15i/s320/IMG_1438.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Newsstand</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxjRQgSP5C3M-9bsV7IdxQZ_qqZV5KfoDjiF8Cy_qcT70Hi7cNqRKqY5G2UATG_eD81QIq0LbRhwZ3MZl5thtMZXv4ns3c6BolBgek5URUvgmFa3BkD9q8IpRCtS1cBVT5-uoFXntqqpM_/s1600/IMG_1440.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxjRQgSP5C3M-9bsV7IdxQZ_qqZV5KfoDjiF8Cy_qcT70Hi7cNqRKqY5G2UATG_eD81QIq0LbRhwZ3MZl5thtMZXv4ns3c6BolBgek5URUvgmFa3BkD9q8IpRCtS1cBVT5-uoFXntqqpM_/s1600/IMG_1440.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street Merchant</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5vP2OlkbOFqMdKJtwqynXjBhzWSvBxoSoc9rGhYvGkS0er-RpUUOR9hO2Pe7STiRtH8-fWWg2aytlXkY2W0lJcscpbjEO_BLYjDBxSrxJNBR6NPTJR2jqFRU80a78-W0kgm9c_cvoNw6/s1600/IMG_1534.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN5vP2OlkbOFqMdKJtwqynXjBhzWSvBxoSoc9rGhYvGkS0er-RpUUOR9hO2Pe7STiRtH8-fWWg2aytlXkY2W0lJcscpbjEO_BLYjDBxSrxJNBR6NPTJR2jqFRU80a78-W0kgm9c_cvoNw6/s1600/IMG_1534.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Farsi Bins</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jKhFJvN3ukd_I4YkKLDsuxRRZf4_G86wAUCg1cqZlCQqASjelCmSY541YtGQgYooA09Ee1JycBqNJ72rE8UvdzsHHXHLwgKx7TSut9xyk9ieLCu3suqE8WdPU19TPltXRjm4zweDsMyn/s1600/IMG_1535.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jKhFJvN3ukd_I4YkKLDsuxRRZf4_G86wAUCg1cqZlCQqASjelCmSY541YtGQgYooA09Ee1JycBqNJ72rE8UvdzsHHXHLwgKx7TSut9xyk9ieLCu3suqE8WdPU19TPltXRjm4zweDsMyn/s1600/IMG_1535.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Near the Bazaar</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi28X97z-tivsKm6eCY-ZNbqD-BVhUAu0YAG-KgKA2aSo1UrzlcqPQrSvO8WgMt3dxDuzXGZbmoBbWKdCcW8X7hn6AuzHfDneLVHYbXLGmQ1JIWsJiN7cKjjyRTBVIjCswyfNkxgaPnUN/s1600/IMG_1460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi28X97z-tivsKm6eCY-ZNbqD-BVhUAu0YAG-KgKA2aSo1UrzlcqPQrSvO8WgMt3dxDuzXGZbmoBbWKdCcW8X7hn6AuzHfDneLVHYbXLGmQ1JIWsJiN7cKjjyRTBVIjCswyfNkxgaPnUN/s320/IMG_1460.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Traffic</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLdbBw6XFDmWM3EnQKhlgOd6VuDJqZTCmXsV20IrsCW7Wsfkbq2M9uu7S-dIz1fkob34_6zrF3xcEsoIrkXMCazM1PznXKKxsG0WPXwgYqrR2GjCvjSq4I8rUWKSvXi9mXL4RNz30DGAj/s1600/IMG_1586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLdbBw6XFDmWM3EnQKhlgOd6VuDJqZTCmXsV20IrsCW7Wsfkbq2M9uu7S-dIz1fkob34_6zrF3xcEsoIrkXMCazM1PznXKKxsG0WPXwgYqrR2GjCvjSq4I8rUWKSvXi9mXL4RNz30DGAj/s320/IMG_1586.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> A Bridal shop, with Chador-clad customers</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAuAqYvPjn6ej43dFkNrIjh5cLWUSAdAH_YvpzaEBNoBHm0xuP1uCwhnF-yJsyxPzZgoTOCUop6gI9yMHwrX4TpCZd7Sa6RaDun8z6ZPDosXo-DDgnlWcR-KtAEFwawPv4sNQxX-iMTd9/s1600/IMG_1587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAuAqYvPjn6ej43dFkNrIjh5cLWUSAdAH_YvpzaEBNoBHm0xuP1uCwhnF-yJsyxPzZgoTOCUop6gI9yMHwrX4TpCZd7Sa6RaDun8z6ZPDosXo-DDgnlWcR-KtAEFwawPv4sNQxX-iMTd9/s320/IMG_1587.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Night in Tehran</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR19x4gMqhA05BQvlcWWCTMV81yTTO71GDp-Idb16vUKy3vi610-XtW5qse163GgLust6byaELTCN8XUwM78KsTyobmgEfg6vhrcDwiq7yT8arZVQKCfjxubxUjS4x9UVqvUAEcocklBo9/s1600/IMG_1588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR19x4gMqhA05BQvlcWWCTMV81yTTO71GDp-Idb16vUKy3vi610-XtW5qse163GgLust6byaELTCN8XUwM78KsTyobmgEfg6vhrcDwiq7yT8arZVQKCfjxubxUjS4x9UVqvUAEcocklBo9/s320/IMG_1588.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Snow white signage</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-cjAWOZUZhw93zEMKqQg_C2sSM34YntMwTzrj96mn-3JWWGD9r32TpskKJOiQXYCmqVWUd0QE1qe2pkqKoIdcBFO4cqA8OGXuUiDpULM8cSBKnXnIzpb_6B2Mx8RlqVJiSBhOOYRUYBn/s1600/IMG_1603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-cjAWOZUZhw93zEMKqQg_C2sSM34YntMwTzrj96mn-3JWWGD9r32TpskKJOiQXYCmqVWUd0QE1qe2pkqKoIdcBFO4cqA8OGXuUiDpULM8cSBKnXnIzpb_6B2Mx8RlqVJiSBhOOYRUYBn/s320/IMG_1603.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Mural</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0PqUzSxGZnOPwRO2lkBRXNTL4Py-EFPXUEi2VRJscMwThODDc3U14ziLJ3OmjqKGWglMNzTmjg6IzBhFmuVmSoVg6ywFCdZsPGgjFU4JiI1JgentvevrvetKWg8AI8jxwwd8eNBLH3NB/s1600/IMG_1605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0PqUzSxGZnOPwRO2lkBRXNTL4Py-EFPXUEi2VRJscMwThODDc3U14ziLJ3OmjqKGWglMNzTmjg6IzBhFmuVmSoVg6ywFCdZsPGgjFU4JiI1JgentvevrvetKWg8AI8jxwwd8eNBLH3NB/s320/IMG_1605.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">More Men with Beards </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkngNmSxn6YlFx7R6jZR9tyMFWSYMh7ogI-AUEz8SafdHq6rXziNuGdH2iDMfsUNeQphP2SuLmX3gOLd_hKc6MPRhe2G0CeL5zo9G9CXCbxOFKJo7PskJxZjOE4qgVEpB72NTfGXqzWwxc/s1600/IMG_1653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkngNmSxn6YlFx7R6jZR9tyMFWSYMh7ogI-AUEz8SafdHq6rXziNuGdH2iDMfsUNeQphP2SuLmX3gOLd_hKc6MPRhe2G0CeL5zo9G9CXCbxOFKJo7PskJxZjOE4qgVEpB72NTfGXqzWwxc/s320/IMG_1653.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The National Car</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIRvkeuko7tP8B7NH3giUvnXMVh1WIWaiT7oZBkNKk0Fw1wb0ju9mn_kT2doWZa10jlOv1oMlB95Ez-gHE23Er9i9bBmFj8w_nKCeCSkyxPTT0QcWqWAuz0YfDG1WtQyUVmwJ261WG58d/s1600/IMG_1661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoIRvkeuko7tP8B7NH3giUvnXMVh1WIWaiT7oZBkNKk0Fw1wb0ju9mn_kT2doWZa10jlOv1oMlB95Ez-gHE23Er9i9bBmFj8w_nKCeCSkyxPTT0QcWqWAuz0YfDG1WtQyUVmwJ261WG58d/s320/IMG_1661.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Typical street, Tehran</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapJ-owZzJUr0ZSjZmAQXEOXIZVJ0Mekq1Gg9xHp6mc6QNEDjLLN7rn5fYNYKjDUARMYxkmEdaG2zTUkYQ22LSh45wruRwQzXeIyl3L2vuZnHcUNeSIqRtVyOgZtQB6ze7XEShTt_jnEmj/s1600/IMG_1666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhapJ-owZzJUr0ZSjZmAQXEOXIZVJ0Mekq1Gg9xHp6mc6QNEDjLLN7rn5fYNYKjDUARMYxkmEdaG2zTUkYQ22LSh45wruRwQzXeIyl3L2vuZnHcUNeSIqRtVyOgZtQB6ze7XEShTt_jnEmj/s320/IMG_1666.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Ditto</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuDx1bCSe386UQh6b0JXvv8h7j5x-AqxT-OSEolRbgWTcjYEFMP1fj6ThBQf_CzcVvAOC7Xo30t-l4rKyYFFZqShsO56SlrMNMur6wmFkUetJ0QGInrH0EL_-OOvbDuMJRcLkCt1Nnk6gu/s1600/IMG_1787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuDx1bCSe386UQh6b0JXvv8h7j5x-AqxT-OSEolRbgWTcjYEFMP1fj6ThBQf_CzcVvAOC7Xo30t-l4rKyYFFZqShsO56SlrMNMur6wmFkUetJ0QGInrH0EL_-OOvbDuMJRcLkCt1Nnk6gu/s320/IMG_1787.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Azadi (Freedom) Arch in Azadi Square -</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> the final destination for all demonstrations</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-41949228483135491932011-02-16T14:15:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:07:44.713-08:00Chahar Shambeh (Wednesday)<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15.8333px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1hX211n_JFafFMB16cQiinkI9-1ZbVKBrqulTEoCWj6vzwav0Xt9f81GVa_QT2UOt9I07V4juj4hQmQwLaJLcaI9nGvbWKmysYzmOP0TSXvVEat6EwuZyMO_l9C4eOanhe-GAw6lCtYsf/s1600/IMG_1594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1hX211n_JFafFMB16cQiinkI9-1ZbVKBrqulTEoCWj6vzwav0Xt9f81GVa_QT2UOt9I07V4juj4hQmQwLaJLcaI9nGvbWKmysYzmOP0TSXvVEat6EwuZyMO_l9C4eOanhe-GAw6lCtYsf/s320/IMG_1594.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Birthday party for the Italian Cultural Attaché - his daughter takes in the spread</span></span><br />
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</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">1)</span> My new eye glasses were stolen yesterday, i realize. Pickpocketed in the Bazaar. This will make all the theatre a bit blurry now.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">2)</span> I meet with a young Iranian woman, Leila, to give her advice on theatre-making and marketing. She and her husband are working in a town near Tehran that has only had theatre for four years.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">3)</span> I meet with an American/British dual citizen (she's traveling under her British passport). She studied at Lispa in London (a Lecoq school), and speaks a fair bit of Farsi. She's friends with a bunch of my Philly friends - and it's nice to speak English with a native speaker! We're gonna hang a bit.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">4)</span> I meet with two Iranians from Max theatre, including director Reza Servati. This is the team who produced the wonderfully ambitious Bouffon show I saw two nights ago. We chat about touring, and the further development of the show. I hope they can bring it to Toronto, some time. Our city has seen nothing like it.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">5)</span> On the way to the first of today's theatres, I hear about this morning's demonstration ("By the other side" - says an old man). This was the regime using the funeral of the two fallen young people from Feb 14, and coopting their deaths as pro-regime martyrdoms. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">6)</span> Two shows today. Italian (small-scale and good) and Iranian (beyond bad - a play that was horrendous, literally laughable melodrama, about a pre-revolutionary general and his family, this was state-sanctioned drama, telling a story about a monstrous man who tears his own family apart by having ordered an attack on his own people in which many were killed, this was back before the revolution of course - but - um - wait a minute…). </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">7)</span> Italian birthday party in North Tehran with a whole gaggle of Italians - either living in Iran, or touring to the festival. Boisterous. Fun. Interesting talks - especially one with a man who works in Iran for the UN Office on Drugs and Crime, and one with a marvellously articulate Iranian woman. The topic often turns to the state of the country, and speculation about how long the status quo can last, and, if anything changes, what the cost in blood might be.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I share a bus back to the hotel with a large and fantastically animated Italian contingent. Back to my room. Sleep. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I am meeting fascinating people in a terrifying place.</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-86980340796632896602011-02-15T14:42:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:01:04.666-08:00Seh Shambeh (Tuesday): at the Theatre, and after…<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzToazoUKcJWSPGwfF8LIPCsFw-ztc7Eqya6nMn0xdTNjnYueG-kZIIKMwD085kBPfyw2LwhYGSiKZx3Du4bpu_i3BcagCO97jOgJl_S4lBNF8i6-Ca8cw0xFMphbsg9bmPbMAlALXPH5H/s1600/tumblr_lgozpdfy9W1qamxlc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzToazoUKcJWSPGwfF8LIPCsFw-ztc7Eqya6nMn0xdTNjnYueG-kZIIKMwD085kBPfyw2LwhYGSiKZx3Du4bpu_i3BcagCO97jOgJl_S4lBNF8i6-Ca8cw0xFMphbsg9bmPbMAlALXPH5H/s320/tumblr_lgozpdfy9W1qamxlc.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Sanah Jaleh and Mohammed Moktari - the two young men killed in yesterday's demonstration (source: http://doveshumanrights.tumblr.com/)</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3 plays today. 2 were not so good - a Czech offering on European politics using sound poetry and staccato movement (a 10 minute idea spun into a painful hour of malfunctioning microphones, and indulgence), and an Italian riff on the Trojan Women that was half folk music meets Ornette Coleman, and half over-emoting.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The third show was very good. An Iranian production of a Jean-Claude Carriere play about an Informant and a Commissar - a lovely text-driven piece about how a police state eats its own children. Well- acted, directed and designed - maybe the acting was a little too heightened, but that might be a taste driven by my own theatre culture. In general, the level of the festival has been that of a Fringe or University festival, but this was finally a polished professional show.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In between, there was talk about the killings yesterday. One of the two dead was a student of Drama at the Art University here in Tehran - Sanah Jaleh. One of my fellow jurors was his professor. There are two versions of his death - one that the young man was in the Sepah, or private state army, and was felled by an unknown assailant - possibly a foreigner. And the other was that he was in opposition to the regime, and killed by being in the wrong place at the wrong time. The first is the official version - perhaps to take away the possibility of a martyr for the opposition. I do not know which is true. Whatever the case - the young man was in third year - and several people I have met know him. His funeral is tomorrow. He was 22. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">After the shows, I was invited by my Italian co-juror and his wife to accompany them to the residence of the Italian Cultural Attaché, in the wealthy northernmost part of Tehran. I went, and, in an Italian space, saw women's hair for the first time in several days, ate glorious food, and chatted with guests from around the world. A treat.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Then the half hour cab drive back to the Hotel Ferdossi, and sleep in my brown, gold, red and orange room.</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-17975362189172977022011-02-15T04:40:00.000-08:002011-03-08T15:01:50.645-08:00Seh Shambeh (Tuesday): at the Bazaar<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyp4uRSen55_5VbvQMnAG-huJHXhyphenhyphenYOPXiZDiCv5SNERTpclfrv3a8q02dCMDPeNaAqPaxXYx19zSScm-I2iFQeBZtt4I4-X32bTHLeePE1VIol_IEHiNy7i8ELX99kfgClYUSAfmAXdAc/s1600/171228_141280975936902_139858942745772_269575_2645642_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyp4uRSen55_5VbvQMnAG-huJHXhyphenhyphenYOPXiZDiCv5SNERTpclfrv3a8q02dCMDPeNaAqPaxXYx19zSScm-I2iFQeBZtt4I4-X32bTHLeePE1VIol_IEHiNy7i8ELX99kfgClYUSAfmAXdAc/s320/171228_141280975936902_139858942745772_269575_2645642_o.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">An image from Wikileaks, advertising the demonstration</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyp4uRSen55_5VbvQMnAG-huJHXhyphenhyphenYOPXiZDiCv5SNERTpclfrv3a8q02dCMDPeNaAqPaxXYx19zSScm-I2iFQeBZtt4I4-X32bTHLeePE1VIol_IEHiNy7i8ELX99kfgClYUSAfmAXdAc/s1600/171228_141280975936902_139858942745772_269575_2645642_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Woke up to read the news - or what i could see of it. Yesterday's demonstrations were on the front page of the New York Times, and featured on Al Jazeera. Then the internet slowed down to a standstill, and I could read no more. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hear in the lobby that the Estonians were released yesterday, but that their cameras and passports are still being held.</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></div></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I heard a little more about the demonstration, too - about tear gas, and beatings and chases through the streets. About some Iranians who might open their doors to shelter protesters, and others who might fasten a hand on them to take them to the police. But there is no overall perspective gained from being here. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Today is calm though, and Tehran seems to be back to normal. I met with Nasim, and a company of Greek theatre artists, and we all went together to the Tehran Bazaar. This is the largest bazaar in Iran, and it is fascinating - a rabbit warren of passageways, streets and alleys, full of shops that sell everything - from samovars to bras, from plastic dolls to handmade carpets. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The Greek company told me of how they had to modify their play to perform here. They did a version upon arrival for a panel of judges, who then suggested further modifications. The show was devised physical theatre, but the women shouldn't dance in a physical or sensual way, and shouldn't sing by themselves. Many changes had to be made. I did discover, however, that the show's director, Olga Pozeli, and I went to the same college at the University of London, one year apart - and had most of the same teachers. We even lived in the same housing complex, Penrose Court. An amazing coincidence in Tehran. David Jansen - are you reading this?! (David went to the same college, and he and I had this same coincidental discovery many years ago…).</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Jr3Dgv2wtBVmX1DFa61ePdjYW4Y-Vx49XBa3Ez68yyHtn7q612elQ-79fRLJtJWGPTaZsAxrZQmy6IMxq9zLRQ1yR914M6HYgRO9sqkkQQnHb5lvlkyeaXmTl2c51LAJa66uq5YXmIWZ/s1600/IMG_1538.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Jr3Dgv2wtBVmX1DFa61ePdjYW4Y-Vx49XBa3Ez68yyHtn7q612elQ-79fRLJtJWGPTaZsAxrZQmy6IMxq9zLRQ1yR914M6HYgRO9sqkkQQnHb5lvlkyeaXmTl2c51LAJa66uq5YXmIWZ/s1600/IMG_1538.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 16px;"></span></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Tehran Bazaar</span></span></div></div></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica;"><br />
</span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHDVScPbExjwz_JWqHf6LYW3Dun0VaFeN-FksPOVk9E1jbH7VQaTAWet5rpn0NGxKseoa6CC5hHSNh0PARIlAqdwIzevDMJlUHyz8Rs59c7JgfotPICu7hZLkVgfvXVROEeiiCn4NUt5t/s1600/IMG_1544.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYHDVScPbExjwz_JWqHf6LYW3Dun0VaFeN-FksPOVk9E1jbH7VQaTAWet5rpn0NGxKseoa6CC5hHSNh0PARIlAqdwIzevDMJlUHyz8Rs59c7JgfotPICu7hZLkVgfvXVROEeiiCn4NUt5t/s1600/IMG_1544.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Tehran Bazaar (South Tehran)</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7bbcjNkmBXj85HUqVqrUoQc02-AaFd4Qe-wyJggQ3cAfCL2hrryCnzP-aS89iZ4v0kQ5mSa2er_IV6aGXlSaCyI_UMf1xjYOSxq2lvdD2WWqteabJPWR9m2-5EnUK4b2mXLqE4RVPkbRX/s1600/IMG_1559.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7bbcjNkmBXj85HUqVqrUoQc02-AaFd4Qe-wyJggQ3cAfCL2hrryCnzP-aS89iZ4v0kQ5mSa2er_IV6aGXlSaCyI_UMf1xjYOSxq2lvdD2WWqteabJPWR9m2-5EnUK4b2mXLqE4RVPkbRX/s1600/IMG_1559.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The Greeks</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHa2VyEKY_gwhQLKIW8P_Wx9EOCLOVikUKPagn_5dahAR-3_2HoG1eJ-8O1G2AIM_jJzUQjINsIKMOdM0EWzgKt0Tvk466MZRr1dU8FfXCTEzkMdC1bvGaR1yqkZYP4P_HarLeQLpsL_e/s1600/IMG_1520.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCHa2VyEKY_gwhQLKIW8P_Wx9EOCLOVikUKPagn_5dahAR-3_2HoG1eJ-8O1G2AIM_jJzUQjINsIKMOdM0EWzgKt0Tvk466MZRr1dU8FfXCTEzkMdC1bvGaR1yqkZYP4P_HarLeQLpsL_e/s1600/IMG_1520.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Chadors versus Baby Dolls</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMucuK8cWyov34DxznfuG1zMAU3WWRgYRPzGOrCbrJXeRdcNhPKWBQUuJ8xmD4rQCgJJnP_d9YnqTzr5HE-Nt2xmtKM6Owx_dMd2Cy3y2fjrNtybtNMOVQzS1Ia7GRynv9TmkBxQM3OwIk/s1600/IMG_1530.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMucuK8cWyov34DxznfuG1zMAU3WWRgYRPzGOrCbrJXeRdcNhPKWBQUuJ8xmD4rQCgJJnP_d9YnqTzr5HE-Nt2xmtKM6Owx_dMd2Cy3y2fjrNtybtNMOVQzS1Ia7GRynv9TmkBxQM3OwIk/s1600/IMG_1530.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tehran Bazaar</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT2Y0ebmZd2SPsua6z11fSEnItwD4mse0qq-sky74dVDqRvKnUGxbb5AH0APVqnBy9svm162uBw3Yi781iu574uks1_5Ql7ZYM-7ovS5IYVasSQ6d_ccLQj9pvGsuCbz7zXs8rpgtbPY5/s1600/IMG_1546.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNT2Y0ebmZd2SPsua6z11fSEnItwD4mse0qq-sky74dVDqRvKnUGxbb5AH0APVqnBy9svm162uBw3Yi781iu574uks1_5Ql7ZYM-7ovS5IYVasSQ6d_ccLQj9pvGsuCbz7zXs8rpgtbPY5/s1600/IMG_1546.jpg" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The cats of the bazaar</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZrJqiPj8sdFCBa9rMGaIZvxsWETlaNj0XLGcVT2KPjrN9QWKmquV6cqWF26VLyzwXTy4OmTZtXEZcbH5iHvbCrory7ZDEMzhFxmGV2Mc9v2IRBwgK1yzkzSq1p6R6zdx66kEUHazgz31/s1600/IMG_1548.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPZrJqiPj8sdFCBa9rMGaIZvxsWETlaNj0XLGcVT2KPjrN9QWKmquV6cqWF26VLyzwXTy4OmTZtXEZcbH5iHvbCrory7ZDEMzhFxmGV2Mc9v2IRBwgK1yzkzSq1p6R6zdx66kEUHazgz31/s1600/IMG_1548.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tehran Bazaar: Teacups</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw48UmZiVb046sw80uoh6CIpsefn8FACEJgia81P7Suod8dSCTU0u5vbIGMy7TtwLuf3WdObc6szTAanSpw058VXlIKI_7k5aYlejDYoinC0wi_LVeMW5blocYMF-q_BslGiekhH-4MR4/s1600/IMG_1549.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLw48UmZiVb046sw80uoh6CIpsefn8FACEJgia81P7Suod8dSCTU0u5vbIGMy7TtwLuf3WdObc6szTAanSpw058VXlIKI_7k5aYlejDYoinC0wi_LVeMW5blocYMF-q_BslGiekhH-4MR4/s1600/IMG_1549.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tehran Bazaar</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqLh5Ce7-cPu3Gu3RP6GhuL4jM5K9OCdbDKfrUQHeDpLnUEbUk7007pMvLwM5amzQOgqYyMczh3zLpYf6gvG2WVWFJQcr3ZCUnBvYQn5zGJxOPd1kM8QMATdJIQeVbIEiZ0N9-EYMfVCw/s1600/IMG_1554.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfqLh5Ce7-cPu3Gu3RP6GhuL4jM5K9OCdbDKfrUQHeDpLnUEbUk7007pMvLwM5amzQOgqYyMczh3zLpYf6gvG2WVWFJQcr3ZCUnBvYQn5zGJxOPd1kM8QMATdJIQeVbIEiZ0N9-EYMfVCw/s1600/IMG_1554.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Tehran Bazaar</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChw7B0ZztZf9XNTZ0oc0xAH4AcJcNEH6G_ntYQr6LNQdgJqwdwexNTu6fTG3ME4nZuBQv9T2BhjRfjLPRH4orc2A-JssK-NIfu0iuhOFteRocf188ZT4KxP4nX3aJyEa0IMqP22cNsyye/s1600/IMG_1556.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChw7B0ZztZf9XNTZ0oc0xAH4AcJcNEH6G_ntYQr6LNQdgJqwdwexNTu6fTG3ME4nZuBQv9T2BhjRfjLPRH4orc2A-JssK-NIfu0iuhOFteRocf188ZT4KxP4nX3aJyEa0IMqP22cNsyye/s1600/IMG_1556.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A mosque in the bazaar</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGeB2R7-B_bGPk7miI6JJvdBQKyTq0zSGQh-ArHKNq5tM70T90DieZ_WMaj1G19NMfRn9ea8_t7B7frevunDRVZXogZnAzZZiRDq2W3Si4bArAgX6Sf_RkXvO2SYsotGjOwUCOi7vZJaS/s1600/IMG_1557.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGeB2R7-B_bGPk7miI6JJvdBQKyTq0zSGQh-ArHKNq5tM70T90DieZ_WMaj1G19NMfRn9ea8_t7B7frevunDRVZXogZnAzZZiRDq2W3Si4bArAgX6Sf_RkXvO2SYsotGjOwUCOi7vZJaS/s1600/IMG_1557.jpg" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Outside the mosque - poster of supreme leader Ali Khamenei</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeniOQyONEKaZrLpfM2ZC5uqBn5hFx87Z1hx0Vi2kGAVJDhtThVzZWYsSbHx4i3sJildsxXzgsOOiu9IXV1qKbI6qzFa3tpdz41C20FOihcDbeEhU5W47rqUPKIrEc-pIsPjW69W4RVHIh/s1600/IMG_1558.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeniOQyONEKaZrLpfM2ZC5uqBn5hFx87Z1hx0Vi2kGAVJDhtThVzZWYsSbHx4i3sJildsxXzgsOOiu9IXV1qKbI6qzFa3tpdz41C20FOihcDbeEhU5W47rqUPKIrEc-pIsPjW69W4RVHIh/s1600/IMG_1558.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Mosque detail</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtHgwn3v90KNbCBsySOuBxaeXeSISEmYTZqUPI7oI_G4FUJubU3cCPGZppW3nSZzeACibtC8YRK7N1JtyFHJjRDHxiPA_vl0n9T9NOaFw2KxLRHmejrCJQ9OAh9frKSUT5qDqkMyfs9lpo/s1600/IMG_1567.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtHgwn3v90KNbCBsySOuBxaeXeSISEmYTZqUPI7oI_G4FUJubU3cCPGZppW3nSZzeACibtC8YRK7N1JtyFHJjRDHxiPA_vl0n9T9NOaFw2KxLRHmejrCJQ9OAh9frKSUT5qDqkMyfs9lpo/s1600/IMG_1567.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Fabric stall in the bazaar</span></span></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 16px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><br />
</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-3394832257732056102011-02-14T13:40:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:40:56.423-08:00Bahman 25, Tehran<div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH12dOh8-4JemceEbjkn1wFKSQafvJVmXVfp0GKQBC3cMHmnbrOValLGvNZ7P47eNAseuY7EUeACmCawTm9bbW0i34rdHfZ9kyy1XpNBInV7W82nKoJLMAwIAV2s18hKjFS_SYbpbdFybH/s1600/IMG_1499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH12dOh8-4JemceEbjkn1wFKSQafvJVmXVfp0GKQBC3cMHmnbrOValLGvNZ7P47eNAseuY7EUeACmCawTm9bbW0i34rdHfZ9kyy1XpNBInV7W82nKoJLMAwIAV2s18hKjFS_SYbpbdFybH/s320/IMG_1499.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Looking out from the City Theatre onto the demonstration</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">What to say about today? </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Our schedule has us seeing three shows. We meet to leave early for the first theatre - at 3pm. With the planned demonstration, we don't know if our route to the theatre will be blocked. We get in our minivan, and this time, a security guard from the festival comes with us. In the case of roadblocks, he can get us through.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> There are no roadblocks. Just very bad traffic. Arriving at the theatre, we are taken upstairs to an office, for tea. From here, we have a clear sight of Enghelab Street. This is one of the routes along which the demonstration is forming, to march towards Enghelab Square. There are riot police and soldiers everywhere. Below us, in front of the theatre (it's a very big theatre complex), are parked about a dozen police vans. Over the course of almost an hour, more and more people pass by us, marching towards the square. Perhaps a few thousand. It is peaceful. Traffic is backed up terrifically. The car horns are a sign of support, says someone.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> We go downstairs to watch show number one. We all feel slightly odd to be seeing a play, with so much drama outside. But it is a good piece, from Italy. A young group, very inventive staging. 45 minutes of imagistic theatre about a man who has no memory.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Back to the minivan. We pass Peter Stein and his team going to the theatre we just left. We get in and drive. By this point - none of our cell phones work.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Now it gets interesting.</span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The route to the next theatre is THROUGH the demonstration. We join the long rank of cars. I will blog more later about what happened - i.e. when i'm out of Iran. But we all get safely through a bit of sheer fear and insanity, and go to possibly one of the worst productions I have ever seen in my life. So we risked our lives for this? we think. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">6)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The next route, to theatre three, is easy. We see many police - but we are now not near the demonstration. We arrive in time for a meal in the theatre restaurant. The cell phones work again. We see a wonderful Iranian bouffon piece - Strange Creatures - looking at the cycling of regimes and the effect of such a cycle on these strange grotesque beings. </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">7)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> We return to the hotel. We hear that three Estonian theatre artists were taken in for photographing in the street. Several of the foreign theatre artists here have had run-ins with the secret police or the Sepah (Islamic Guardians - an almost all-powerful private army) about camera use. </span></span></div><div style="color: #144fae; font: 14.0px Verdana; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 17.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span></span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">8)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I run into Peter Stein in the hallway, and thank him for his show last night. We chat a bit, auf Deutsch. He says he had a good writer (that would be Goethe). </span></span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">9)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> In my room, i get online. I read in Al Jazeera about the demonstration today, trying to find out what happened. Here's the article: </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #0e37a5; font-family: TrebuchetMS;"><a href="http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2011/02/201121412571299951.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://english.aljazeera.net/news/middleeast/2011/02/201121412571299951.html</span></a></span><span style="color: #144fae; font: normal normal normal 14px/normal Verdana; text-decoration: underline;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The Ottawa Citizen has reported on the demonstration: </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: TrebuchetMS;"><a href="http://www.ottawacitizen.com/story_print.html?id=4279093&sponsor"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://www.ottawacitizen.com/story_print.html?id=4279093&sponsor</span></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: TrebuchetMS;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">=</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. And the New York Times report echoes what I am myself seeing and hearing: </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: TrebuchetMS;"><a href="http://www.ottawacitizen.com/story_print.html?id=4279093&sponsor"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">http://www.ottawacitizen.com/story_print.html?id=4279093&sponsor</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">=.</span></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">According to Al Jazeera, it seems some people lost their lives today.</span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 19.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 16.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">10)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I go to bed. I feel the adrenaline still in my system. I hope for calm tomorrow. I think about arrests and deaths and Faust and Bouffon. This is a surreal trip.</span></span></div><div><br />
</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-60810250831742802662011-02-14T00:29:00.000-08:002011-03-08T15:04:38.218-08:00Works of Art - Photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-UqD0qq6XE2eeamBokRDuTvzOmqMzdT0plBT7xvfD7xoPeLDt60jqaqKYdRoQX9SZ8ovzX3UqGnoA6mVAUmZyVzgzyG561kX2W8rMmlRvQfXY-jRsi3s9-wXl104iq5wJrGDaMYeDNhR9/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-UqD0qq6XE2eeamBokRDuTvzOmqMzdT0plBT7xvfD7xoPeLDt60jqaqKYdRoQX9SZ8ovzX3UqGnoA6mVAUmZyVzgzyG561kX2W8rMmlRvQfXY-jRsi3s9-wXl104iq5wJrGDaMYeDNhR9/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">German Theatre Great Peter Stein beside Iranian Theatre Great Hamid Samandarian, after Stein's performance of Faust Fantasia</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf54debAiT8AmUK8VOYj3x2O78GUO8OJzOjfBp9Mt1O-TbAeXA_4JaVkmAYp-s18XvEZeCQQewTyhFD-8-n1mFsTmGhs190eo0YDJt1UsPi5tfZNjBmdoW6Vdj4q2o4vcFrZDX3oJzWEht/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf54debAiT8AmUK8VOYj3x2O78GUO8OJzOjfBp9Mt1O-TbAeXA_4JaVkmAYp-s18XvEZeCQQewTyhFD-8-n1mFsTmGhs190eo0YDJt1UsPi5tfZNjBmdoW6Vdj4q2o4vcFrZDX3oJzWEht/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Wax Statue of the above Hamid Samandarian just outside the theatre named after him, which, by the way, is a better flexible black box facility than anything in Toronto. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgNog-A5yprGf-Hl7mzkwWW32I5fBFtvfW2SaYa5XUzl57vR3v4m7mZAZyiTrqfsW6pwjDXOlHHLNaKJAAMTimI8eX0cUxv1qpV0dPnb23LkheaDZpHhqQx0D0NcjqFxzgFX5vJ0mtIQP/s1600/IMG_1453.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgNog-A5yprGf-Hl7mzkwWW32I5fBFtvfW2SaYa5XUzl57vR3v4m7mZAZyiTrqfsW6pwjDXOlHHLNaKJAAMTimI8eX0cUxv1qpV0dPnb23LkheaDZpHhqQx0D0NcjqFxzgFX5vJ0mtIQP/s1600/IMG_1453.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The gals at check in, and their snappy outfits</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtv-Uv6MWBVsCCo1luALx9B77GmPD0aMjg-dylQEFCJTqWjMMxeZ2zpDbwf7w51LSLHK54Fwtg-kZiHQB4Q_kr-HVYd7qh5e-4uyWBDOz1Vmfr7TZ12ZbANiBbzeB2iSalg9RHfVDUi6L/s1600/IMG_1446.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtv-Uv6MWBVsCCo1luALx9B77GmPD0aMjg-dylQEFCJTqWjMMxeZ2zpDbwf7w51LSLHK54Fwtg-kZiHQB4Q_kr-HVYd7qh5e-4uyWBDOz1Vmfr7TZ12ZbANiBbzeB2iSalg9RHfVDUi6L/s1600/IMG_1446.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A student/artist cafe in Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQyny3KI3JcxfppO-CLn5dm-_6fPOBuT9Yn4TUMowQFqd0nJTzNWUrt3EfjgyHV5dzJULW0jNsohQuBcNwOu3xagZnhmI-HkIedTf5ESyhKA3uM75c89EKxWbac6m3ZvkkvtmS3306Dtaa/s1600/IMG_1445.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQyny3KI3JcxfppO-CLn5dm-_6fPOBuT9Yn4TUMowQFqd0nJTzNWUrt3EfjgyHV5dzJULW0jNsohQuBcNwOu3xagZnhmI-HkIedTf5ESyhKA3uM75c89EKxWbac6m3ZvkkvtmS3306Dtaa/s1600/IMG_1445.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Art on the wall in the above cafe</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2rhF7gG9dPa53A4rVX-f38HsmzYu4GvznvfsnJhLi1o1XgyojIg36EYH5qGCTrJPDn_q9vVmu1gEN7LH4bMEdibIyV26FxwHSnLSt0wvzC0JC0-AMcKT3IKN-ByyjDdf5cDE18c80umx/s1600/IMG_1390.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2rhF7gG9dPa53A4rVX-f38HsmzYu4GvznvfsnJhLi1o1XgyojIg36EYH5qGCTrJPDn_q9vVmu1gEN7LH4bMEdibIyV26FxwHSnLSt0wvzC0JC0-AMcKT3IKN-ByyjDdf5cDE18c80umx/s1600/IMG_1390.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Photos of street graffiti, c. 1979, from the Iranian Contemporary Art museum</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9GYj5iCgUiZhevAu0QdMH5_0Dyr4RasJ97808Gd3-xPBt7UP0JSbw5OsMFiO1GDK044hDOwRvhFSmpeZWc2pmsIC0QUf9PPVNwlAvbEopougsXxt8ZEQJmekBqV7Jjny-2pw92yU6cVt/s1600/IMG_1391.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9GYj5iCgUiZhevAu0QdMH5_0Dyr4RasJ97808Gd3-xPBt7UP0JSbw5OsMFiO1GDK044hDOwRvhFSmpeZWc2pmsIC0QUf9PPVNwlAvbEopougsXxt8ZEQJmekBqV7Jjny-2pw92yU6cVt/s1600/IMG_1391.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The Passage of Time, by Reza Banqiz, at the Iranian Contemporary Art museum</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEu1n7PK5zFFh_oIRM9A_x7Z5fYRbzN9LJ4KJkJgu-MLGXSao41ylRVC9nVHpOyeRNAG3KUmSTXnVCVMRz0KgFBjYd-fSy13iy8GUPe-X3S-7t8oL1wRXI20QC7q4xTtYzfXR1uFjz9UJP/s1600/IMG_1393.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEu1n7PK5zFFh_oIRM9A_x7Z5fYRbzN9LJ4KJkJgu-MLGXSao41ylRVC9nVHpOyeRNAG3KUmSTXnVCVMRz0KgFBjYd-fSy13iy8GUPe-X3S-7t8oL1wRXI20QC7q4xTtYzfXR1uFjz9UJP/s1600/IMG_1393.JPG" width="320" /></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Heaven and Earth, side view - 7 etched glass panels,</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">by Seyed Nezameddin Emamifar, at the Iranian Contemporary Art museum</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5RCiirjmmDmkuSe93macieeHrzNg0Um4vNMCge0tlT26od_5TReoDezirioO1JncqhpFOq6dp0yPwbvBkbwN6jVy8l6NMkhDO_-1Jkpy5f13DEd5kevQu36UKE9vtYJj-6NL7zihu8781/s1600/IMG_1394.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5RCiirjmmDmkuSe93macieeHrzNg0Um4vNMCge0tlT26od_5TReoDezirioO1JncqhpFOq6dp0yPwbvBkbwN6jVy8l6NMkhDO_-1Jkpy5f13DEd5kevQu36UKE9vtYJj-6NL7zihu8781/s1600/IMG_1394.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Heaven and Earth, front view - 7 etched glass panels, </span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">by Seyed Nezameddin Emamifar, at the Iranian Contemporary Art museum</span></div></div></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5wvjqawQaoi1AsfJfTAGaGGOgnXvOuiWZMGtSqpTh3DRL5i3CvieiefPUTO_a3lyK-YuIX-IUIj7nSObsViMCh8IQ9HPls_eFktt_1HGbxAj9hUodME7fs1efq59yzFm9W9bmxxW8Upj/s1600/IMG_1398.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz5wvjqawQaoi1AsfJfTAGaGGOgnXvOuiWZMGtSqpTh3DRL5i3CvieiefPUTO_a3lyK-YuIX-IUIj7nSObsViMCh8IQ9HPls_eFktt_1HGbxAj9hUodME7fs1efq59yzFm9W9bmxxW8Upj/s1600/IMG_1398.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Detail of a carpet at Iran's Carpet Museum, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuViDQQhSKjUaeCOOe0kXXitBqzzDCl5ns13iOlKXcSP_QmFXtuyZrQBcuopXBcDvfDwdvXUo0aZR0MUQcz6wu4zCc8pg2QW2gbLfysh5gdzwGLSfyZ4GSj5hE-xliiXFGysxiBlw203u/s1600/IMG_1407.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuViDQQhSKjUaeCOOe0kXXitBqzzDCl5ns13iOlKXcSP_QmFXtuyZrQBcuopXBcDvfDwdvXUo0aZR0MUQcz6wu4zCc8pg2QW2gbLfysh5gdzwGLSfyZ4GSj5hE-xliiXFGysxiBlw203u/s1600/IMG_1407.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Zodiac Carpet, at the Carpet Museum</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcplvSdFwITyoJ6pIkk0J6YyDlQATtimwrV56gebW0Zm-y4QTcX27Xl041vlOaL-BIj3zw5gnM0E_wI6ISVB6bAlkAhJpSUVm57QZpWKw9qAhFCextHoCFB93BfKWf_lqwoOloKtSmYbX9/s1600/IMG_1408.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcplvSdFwITyoJ6pIkk0J6YyDlQATtimwrV56gebW0Zm-y4QTcX27Xl041vlOaL-BIj3zw5gnM0E_wI6ISVB6bAlkAhJpSUVm57QZpWKw9qAhFCextHoCFB93BfKWf_lqwoOloKtSmYbX9/s1600/IMG_1408.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">My sign</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXd5rXKke5OnR1rFcrQH1tgRadwM_d-SKwwxf1UlCWeqnVF3CkTyyjKOYe_RzJ6g3Ol4cc5L27LLEnoMbPkf22_-EtSo0oqa49G8FZihavF0QeIturqws7cHgneM1Qb-71ghgiEl1O0fix/s1600/IMG_1370.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXd5rXKke5OnR1rFcrQH1tgRadwM_d-SKwwxf1UlCWeqnVF3CkTyyjKOYe_RzJ6g3Ol4cc5L27LLEnoMbPkf22_-EtSo0oqa49G8FZihavF0QeIturqws7cHgneM1Qb-71ghgiEl1O0fix/s1600/IMG_1370.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Tile art, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5-xiTh9UruNIEKRHmH49H_2RfY6IDzAArDUJVkCOT89_0ftdMLLZjJKvxYzx80DApKgXbv89nQygBopxk3E0f9BY6ChZrEBzwHXLGdnscenl_yRu4ba3dhwLzgy5G9AmCxbI1r0g-MJo/s1600/IMG_1378.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5-xiTh9UruNIEKRHmH49H_2RfY6IDzAArDUJVkCOT89_0ftdMLLZjJKvxYzx80DApKgXbv89nQygBopxk3E0f9BY6ChZrEBzwHXLGdnscenl_yRu4ba3dhwLzgy5G9AmCxbI1r0g-MJo/s1600/IMG_1378.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street Art!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtMpljK7tb-rP715NxP4jvu7LbUjBfgq7BUtbep1cw3AC8T3rdghP7KcEJkVoakTwRAUmPLab0mSK41wDGu4_8vMimP2gLZ-vg0-7ceqS1-eIogVuOgvOxr6E_4f-6Nk4mBRO8JtmcG35/s1600/IMG_1414.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTtMpljK7tb-rP715NxP4jvu7LbUjBfgq7BUtbep1cw3AC8T3rdghP7KcEJkVoakTwRAUmPLab0mSK41wDGu4_8vMimP2gLZ-vg0-7ceqS1-eIogVuOgvOxr6E_4f-6Nk4mBRO8JtmcG35/s1600/IMG_1414.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bronze Slippers by a concrete door sculpture, outside the Carpet Museum, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOLsjkKWtnaU6e-yC6SJ8WI17U4CFtmj8CdPQPRfOH3Cv8SRYeoq5hFCyvo-J2fLcOk9LVqvtunFUynxOpOrnOzJ7EZztU8nm9uZEEij8iY3vwNRFyTeGJ2J0OScPul92DtJHQU5LxgEg/s1600/IMG_1418.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOLsjkKWtnaU6e-yC6SJ8WI17U4CFtmj8CdPQPRfOH3Cv8SRYeoq5hFCyvo-J2fLcOk9LVqvtunFUynxOpOrnOzJ7EZztU8nm9uZEEij8iY3vwNRFyTeGJ2J0OScPul92DtJHQU5LxgEg/s1600/IMG_1418.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Inside the door, looking up</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KbvUMPIy_kiqb_aMcw3Uzcx5OscHYOLTaN4Ub0pgChXxQIIMJYdkkZFyXSyAnoJZKW8q-ZnYEnsfGCQg_dPjz_B7bgZWxS-1mgEXmBHEbIw00fKUxr7XfaZ0r2cNJEfIT-jAneWHJq4m/s1600/IMG_1425.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KbvUMPIy_kiqb_aMcw3Uzcx5OscHYOLTaN4Ub0pgChXxQIIMJYdkkZFyXSyAnoJZKW8q-ZnYEnsfGCQg_dPjz_B7bgZWxS-1mgEXmBHEbIw00fKUxr7XfaZ0r2cNJEfIT-jAneWHJq4m/s1600/IMG_1425.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street Mural, North Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2xK3JS5ysbLEvSj5OeakbySHk6afFajjq89Mmb6woUzvhoxkKPbKweelH_DKginnPJsCd3lF_E0UTIYvx2Pu_gDkfBY8sKM6LHDF13UJYJv90eLDHLHYqlBPLidviLu7BoDWB0Ie1zSK3/s1600/IMG_1380.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2xK3JS5ysbLEvSj5OeakbySHk6afFajjq89Mmb6woUzvhoxkKPbKweelH_DKginnPJsCd3lF_E0UTIYvx2Pu_gDkfBY8sKM6LHDF13UJYJv90eLDHLHYqlBPLidviLu7BoDWB0Ie1zSK3/s1600/IMG_1380.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">All kinds of goodness</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">*</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">and a selection of contemporary Iranian artworks, from some of the artists whose work i saw:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXLrsOdBfP37El7uue56xxev_KJwFcVwe5CBRqs-kKh4RqhChycpuO1_J5s7eF00AFkM9TOnuXdUWTWV6o8AZ2RrpBDEqXqcIhq-h-Wim8bIeIFE2GzKS3KzvZVcwTBDJSTgON1c10jfn/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikXLrsOdBfP37El7uue56xxev_KJwFcVwe5CBRqs-kKh4RqhChycpuO1_J5s7eF00AFkM9TOnuXdUWTWV6o8AZ2RrpBDEqXqcIhq-h-Wim8bIeIFE2GzKS3KzvZVcwTBDJSTgON1c10jfn/s320/10.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Morteza Teimori</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZnN1BCF0wt1fMF0zj717s7yF0ZCtLqD-eNrAbD_f1F_ug87Ko-zQh5-6XjBc5Pc65fmQAz2RyqFtDwpQ33J9jteZIF33uPk1cRoDxn-xy8aM_DRn1z-_2I6jdNlBDPNirrRz4jtHkn5z/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZnN1BCF0wt1fMF0zj717s7yF0ZCtLqD-eNrAbD_f1F_ug87Ko-zQh5-6XjBc5Pc65fmQAz2RyqFtDwpQ33J9jteZIF33uPk1cRoDxn-xy8aM_DRn1z-_2I6jdNlBDPNirrRz4jtHkn5z/s320/11.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Morteza Teimori</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_gmIPY2-mil7UVEc9yWyc6-K1di3jFHXzHGMPA7WCcmRje0ZAWZoDSfFwa9CpvgjrJC508Cjo-Qezsu877a6URX1LPmayRquHSq2NvFqnrOjUef8tAiIAD1K5lOvwhwyDXoIomts97Ao/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_gmIPY2-mil7UVEc9yWyc6-K1di3jFHXzHGMPA7WCcmRje0ZAWZoDSfFwa9CpvgjrJC508Cjo-Qezsu877a6URX1LPmayRquHSq2NvFqnrOjUef8tAiIAD1K5lOvwhwyDXoIomts97Ao/s320/12.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Morteza Teimori</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogcXn6SE3cVq3NxGGDcBq212jA6vDdcEh00YHMpWy9X78_1UR8X32ftOF9F7rgpR0aApTlcdXH-6eXnbpjfSoUgGHnxhvdkcK9JU-3KJSZJ2YraDi5vxW2eEkeKGemnLgU7p-ty5emBSJ/s1600/scan0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiogcXn6SE3cVq3NxGGDcBq212jA6vDdcEh00YHMpWy9X78_1UR8X32ftOF9F7rgpR0aApTlcdXH-6eXnbpjfSoUgGHnxhvdkcK9JU-3KJSZJ2YraDi5vxW2eEkeKGemnLgU7p-ty5emBSJ/s320/scan0003.jpg" width="196" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Arman Stepaniyan</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FbmcwkMc0rNtbdH25o5PMRzq6XkaUID14ERzP8pL_pp44YCMFhoU74IcTz4RuzdmSR8ozfPBcurRNF0x2B3za6yXZZi3XXFTZ5oUN9YWm6E5TZpxPAxCtVXXHz5MdJ6U_gO_QUlqC5G7/s1600/scan0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FbmcwkMc0rNtbdH25o5PMRzq6XkaUID14ERzP8pL_pp44YCMFhoU74IcTz4RuzdmSR8ozfPBcurRNF0x2B3za6yXZZi3XXFTZ5oUN9YWm6E5TZpxPAxCtVXXHz5MdJ6U_gO_QUlqC5G7/s320/scan0004.jpg" width="206" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Arman Stepaniyan</span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrYrnA7Y4nT_9USYJi-dksbfw3jfOW1X-VKLEA0SjQAMKtKbmX6J5OQqBX_B_7Nr31eKKK5XyyKUXFTfm0HdsSkTzzvYIRwR-AHYbNDAzwt-3pQUikYkesmCQdc6Q9Dyh_y0oziPL30GMi/s1600/07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrYrnA7Y4nT_9USYJi-dksbfw3jfOW1X-VKLEA0SjQAMKtKbmX6J5OQqBX_B_7Nr31eKKK5XyyKUXFTfm0HdsSkTzzvYIRwR-AHYbNDAzwt-3pQUikYkesmCQdc6Q9Dyh_y0oziPL30GMi/s320/07.jpg" width="223" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Babak Kazemi</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5G_kgaGcq6KY-WxrtOQICgiDchwEIIXNS1ABExUGMSaxpR6wio7kUBOJsgw0z8sU4PVscpZ_38IAlbzSSbBStDpwUiaOshfxknWqt-1fbkf-YeUba6o_yxkPNu_4CTa8uD28ki9yzjaq/s1600/09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5G_kgaGcq6KY-WxrtOQICgiDchwEIIXNS1ABExUGMSaxpR6wio7kUBOJsgw0z8sU4PVscpZ_38IAlbzSSbBStDpwUiaOshfxknWqt-1fbkf-YeUba6o_yxkPNu_4CTa8uD28ki9yzjaq/s320/09.jpg" width="223" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Babak Kazemi</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiee6Tb4G-aOmf7ME9L-WVgbWVJE9uJRkPeVDlkKsBRTvCWsnC9uaL1s6i5VQTxEvyaTvGXkXa1rzsHmy7bm8DT-ra1iChtZSBs9hTetCHJNRgdAmY998jo2cjerkNXKFD7ZlXBcw8h1aTm/s1600/DSC_0170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiee6Tb4G-aOmf7ME9L-WVgbWVJE9uJRkPeVDlkKsBRTvCWsnC9uaL1s6i5VQTxEvyaTvGXkXa1rzsHmy7bm8DT-ra1iChtZSBs9hTetCHJNRgdAmY998jo2cjerkNXKFD7ZlXBcw8h1aTm/s320/DSC_0170.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Babak Kazemi</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheY5uu24rBZdX1345abvaa4nQY45EQiSYJfUECsR-s25lEMa5QjRD-ufj3Y7KgdGg3p_daI3ck99ALSOhWOvAfNsZNDxSnummWIADzMWr0WOZBW0LSWU2qP51ETwx0-3e39jNix1URGuCw/s1600/big_756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheY5uu24rBZdX1345abvaa4nQY45EQiSYJfUECsR-s25lEMa5QjRD-ufj3Y7KgdGg3p_daI3ck99ALSOhWOvAfNsZNDxSnummWIADzMWr0WOZBW0LSWU2qP51ETwx0-3e39jNix1URGuCw/s320/big_756.jpg" width="215" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ywv-YqMYT9OMRbt0Fmvq0bKbT-cuxiQOwNHMRxeXUSWN4zscaJJE7mNLK4USYHYlWyhiFi-iKqZSDwr_srmKv1x-osBuq6qst3S1ZoqOSCvhjyB123POzwta73AZ-sAFqDj1Y0FJ1S9u/s1600/lg_CC06HDQMN3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ywv-YqMYT9OMRbt0Fmvq0bKbT-cuxiQOwNHMRxeXUSWN4zscaJJE7mNLK4USYHYlWyhiFi-iKqZSDwr_srmKv1x-osBuq6qst3S1ZoqOSCvhjyB123POzwta73AZ-sAFqDj1Y0FJ1S9u/s320/lg_CC06HDQMN3.jpg" width="251" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Estabragh Mousavi Fard</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-78818196433706944842011-02-13T13:43:00.000-08:002011-02-26T16:44:05.350-08:00More Photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrINO2IwFUMdhmG76STx9qFO8DQJQGBuOOOjP3x2CR_C7d0jz4lFb6bTPeI9Y5cJIZgMyeIBOLTuIZwUlzTIEGqW15Sn5E3xjQQ5Kh4vR-0bIz6nXx3qpmLorlcRvDPIpTbrtKee2S37p5/s1600/IMG_1351.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrINO2IwFUMdhmG76STx9qFO8DQJQGBuOOOjP3x2CR_C7d0jz4lFb6bTPeI9Y5cJIZgMyeIBOLTuIZwUlzTIEGqW15Sn5E3xjQQ5Kh4vR-0bIz6nXx3qpmLorlcRvDPIpTbrtKee2S37p5/s1600/IMG_1351.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">My bedroom at the Ferdossi Grand Hotel</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dXkq8ZE5QkKOmGOgWT9_kVz5D9d1YdA6bJuUW4r08ONJ7d6MJFB2Xd0QC2tuivO_4TxUZyS8v0zaZSpIi00e1r7t0eyU9zqY2xtMy5oxdrww5Mr_I68OI_utw0p7P71BiYTvQHFjdGbc/s1600/IMG_1357.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dXkq8ZE5QkKOmGOgWT9_kVz5D9d1YdA6bJuUW4r08ONJ7d6MJFB2Xd0QC2tuivO_4TxUZyS8v0zaZSpIi00e1r7t0eyU9zqY2xtMy5oxdrww5Mr_I68OI_utw0p7P71BiYTvQHFjdGbc/s1600/IMG_1357.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Me IN my bedroom at the Ferdossi Grand Hotel</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSc6DZOviVZOEnacTWkKbXBVBGWz9wzN9UM_aUEJm-nYesLPBLEdDoRe22J2ayutwHD2gnTkg7NW5WwEOtjkvWWveSUwp8Sz_9SVpARRZUXzTi8epXjA9Jen0uyLDBrLJ0EVyHnx9YW33O/s1600/IMG_1450.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSc6DZOviVZOEnacTWkKbXBVBGWz9wzN9UM_aUEJm-nYesLPBLEdDoRe22J2ayutwHD2gnTkg7NW5WwEOtjkvWWveSUwp8Sz_9SVpARRZUXzTi8epXjA9Jen0uyLDBrLJ0EVyHnx9YW33O/s1600/IMG_1450.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street scene in Tehran (Centre)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-SGIYl9rv_mD_OBD6l3qo3eQqnkw_N7_KjpKcgMAwolqyiBT92ww3VdmLRjmJBTLDgiTbH7lzmFYLRVxSAD3V-dGjs4XN61FVDucT2NfZfuTZ3F7EMTThSN2FgMR6bOZnmK8QDi6JzAW/s1600/IMG_1420.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-SGIYl9rv_mD_OBD6l3qo3eQqnkw_N7_KjpKcgMAwolqyiBT92ww3VdmLRjmJBTLDgiTbH7lzmFYLRVxSAD3V-dGjs4XN61FVDucT2NfZfuTZ3F7EMTThSN2FgMR6bOZnmK8QDi6JzAW/s1600/IMG_1420.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Street Scene in Tehran (North)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKgZYv4zO9HQSjbdmxI3MUSNSaceLTql8Dp6oOKCPNjoC9wwKbxy8a7CNp30wnCQ1MzwvjtQr9D-9zTy4ze8nMFaZchOVQX8JdshTNIZ35_DxCA179dpqjRlTKjiB0hGtzc7Bx_LneSe7/s1600/IMG_1385.jpg" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKgZYv4zO9HQSjbdmxI3MUSNSaceLTql8Dp6oOKCPNjoC9wwKbxy8a7CNp30wnCQ1MzwvjtQr9D-9zTy4ze8nMFaZchOVQX8JdshTNIZ35_DxCA179dpqjRlTKjiB0hGtzc7Bx_LneSe7/s1600/IMG_1385.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Man with Broom, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKHQChzm64QUw2NQjVle3f-fLquyVJRbgPxkzn9dMdNAQ-9cimaq4Dq3aNc4xEmJhOGocihgxhy99De8Yrs5ri1FE4R4e7EZzOaSaG5pb8bD-QNbayn6JuMTF8-TG9BoxltKKV0gsu3tm/s1600/IMG_1431.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKHQChzm64QUw2NQjVle3f-fLquyVJRbgPxkzn9dMdNAQ-9cimaq4Dq3aNc4xEmJhOGocihgxhy99De8Yrs5ri1FE4R4e7EZzOaSaG5pb8bD-QNbayn6JuMTF8-TG9BoxltKKV0gsu3tm/s1600/IMG_1431.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">El Presidente</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncmV1YMn2nwngr18K4x4g59-qeAjWKzKoeaxpODxU-N9FuQbYxjwpOqhHMu1hgKIsxjrKSz3OfQG4vPkV4oTRtQKy5Xt_CHfyYkUGvGJQmXAKE7JCBtXMYfnYWa2YoHr-oQRlmoNnwc2Y/s1600/IMG_1376.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncmV1YMn2nwngr18K4x4g59-qeAjWKzKoeaxpODxU-N9FuQbYxjwpOqhHMu1hgKIsxjrKSz3OfQG4vPkV4oTRtQKy5Xt_CHfyYkUGvGJQmXAKE7JCBtXMYfnYWa2YoHr-oQRlmoNnwc2Y/s1600/IMG_1376.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Lost in Tehran...</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-74434202149491892512011-02-13T12:55:00.000-08:002011-02-27T06:49:39.532-08:00On the Eve of Bahman 25<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzbXxeRcBLDSFH_r7Wqbkrr8g7yxI0L_NyVS_UmBxf31SxMk5RyH7lW3Zn6zHlz3oIsyNUySghxG14dqT2h642XJqumsOZrmCx63HOTXLKYU7uNDiNRJjrRoXoA_p_i_utlHuh7lSjezI/s1600/IMG_1694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAzbXxeRcBLDSFH_r7Wqbkrr8g7yxI0L_NyVS_UmBxf31SxMk5RyH7lW3Zn6zHlz3oIsyNUySghxG14dqT2h642XJqumsOZrmCx63HOTXLKYU7uNDiNRJjrRoXoA_p_i_utlHuh7lSjezI/s320/IMG_1694.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Web access denied page - you see this a lot in Iran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bahman 25 is tomorrow's date in Iran - Valentine's Day for Canada. There may be a demonstration, there may not be. The Revolutionary Guard seems prepped to crush any protest, according to both Al Jazeera, and to a young man I spoke to here. Time will tell. Or rather - tomorrow will tell. I will be safe inside a theatre building - but apparently will have a view of where the demonstration will take place, if it does. Al Jazeera seems uncertain of anything, except that Iran is not like Egypt. The government has stepped up arrests across the country over the last 24 hours. The White House has called this evidence of a regime afraid of its own citizens, and has called upon Iran to allow peaceful demonstrations.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">In the meantime:</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Peter Stein's show was good. Very simple. He read from Faust. A tremendous pianist played a wonderful accompaniment by an Italian composer. Otherwise, a bare stage. Stein in a black suit. The pianist in tails. Mephistopheles is in the HOUSE.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The Iranian show i saw tonight was an interesting idea, but not a successful piece of theatre. It was a retelling of the section of the Oedipus story where the newly blind Oedipus is in exile in Colonus. This version consisted of a series of letters from Antigone to her sister Ismene, back in Thebes. They describe Colonus as hell on earth, full of sand and fire, a place of fear. This was political allegory (that was the interesting part). Sadly, the show itself was as flat as an allegorical pancake. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> More blocked websites: http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/tehranbureau/, http://apnews.myway.com/, http://www.mojahedin.org/pages/detailsNews.aspx?newsid=77788. Google will also not work for certain words. But Al Jazeera is not blocked. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Tomorrow will be interesting, one way or another...</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-81109187980239608522011-02-13T06:07:00.000-08:002011-03-08T15:06:37.890-08:00Yek Shambeh (Sunday)<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-XiPRlPxh_m9giFph_aGhjLV3CexeIfFf9IdRud4IdAMWPhmSDnfzRdVyz-Y0ODbt7pKt3dYWViC1rfTDRAde-WRIn4BOXnaBBiuSXtaZ2qjmpTyJiNB9A0_W5z9Jtb_AOnwAzK9FGi_/s1600/IMG_1390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8-XiPRlPxh_m9giFph_aGhjLV3CexeIfFf9IdRud4IdAMWPhmSDnfzRdVyz-Y0ODbt7pKt3dYWViC1rfTDRAde-WRIn4BOXnaBBiuSXtaZ2qjmpTyJiNB9A0_W5z9Jtb_AOnwAzK9FGi_/s320/IMG_1390.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Museum of Contemporary Art, Tehran</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">1)</span> A telling moment yesterday: my Italian and Greek co-jurors were talking about their countries' respective presidents. They then tuned to me, and both said they never hear anything about Canada. I said, yes, Canada is like that. Nobody ever hears anything about us. Then the Greek, Lampros, said: you had that very provocative, smart leader a while back - years ago - we remember him. Trudeau?, i ask. Yes, he says. That's the one.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">2)</span> In a cafe, a young man today showed me a dog tag his brother had made for him. It had his name, his birthdate, and his blood type on it. "This is for tomorrow" he said. "Tomorrow" is the big demonstration in support of Egypt and Tunisia, organized by members of the opposition. The brother had made dog tags for each of them. The demonstration has been banned, but is going forward. Hence the need for names and blood types. I am confronted "chest to chest" with a reality very different from my own.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">3)</span> The Museum of Contemporary Art has on display an exhibit of Islamic Revolutionary Art. It reminds me of the art I saw at the Alte Pinakotek in Munich a few months ago - religious, revolutionary, glorious symbols of divinity and sacrifice. One exhibit was Christian, and 400-500 years old. One was Iranian, and recent. But there were also other pieces of contemporary secular art that I found wonderful. One was a stack of cages - bird cages - that filled a open space in the gallery. There was the sound of birds, which I assumed was a recording, until I saw two birds in one of the corner cages on the bottom. THEN i was interviewed by an Iranian News TV crew. I suppose not many foreigners pass through the gallery in February. I didn't talk about the cages. Nor did I tell anyone that I was surreptitiously taking photos of the artwork - something that is banned in galleries, for some reason (apparently a fairly recent rule).</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">4)</span> I crossed my first busy street today. Crossing the street in Tehran is an activity like no other street-crossing experience in the world, as far as I know it. It's like wading into a raging river, and somehow trying to judge which waves might hit you, and which will veer at the last minute. Yet - everyone does this. Although my guide, Nasim, was almost hit by a motorcycle that suddenly appeared around the corner of a bus, going the wrong way up three lanes of traffic. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">5)</span> I saw the legendary German director Peter Stein on his way to breakfast today. As it turns out, we're staying in the same hotel. I met him briefly yesterday. He's looking good, for a guy who revolutionized theatre practice in Europe. I am off to see his show tonight. It's not in the competition we are adjudicating, but our schedule allows us to see it. Apparently HE is performing. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;">6)</span> Internet sites that are blocked, so far: Facebook, Blogspot, Radiozameneh (Iranian news). </span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-70213905085904964112011-02-12T12:31:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:37:07.100-08:00Later that Shambeh<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdAQQs9qSNr45qUHspB8ZlS8gX_LcGfFcdtcP3azZDVz-2fUSgJa-mvKYW0wTFri4vROtfcWXjsgbBvqU8okmHe9yG3ooaJdqFJZLgP2y5Scd0fDfkrUz8DfLlsSPMWqiJGDXmhp7t0wE/s1600/IMG_1381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdAQQs9qSNr45qUHspB8ZlS8gX_LcGfFcdtcP3azZDVz-2fUSgJa-mvKYW0wTFri4vROtfcWXjsgbBvqU8okmHe9yG3ooaJdqFJZLgP2y5Scd0fDfkrUz8DfLlsSPMWqiJGDXmhp7t0wE/s320/IMG_1381.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Students waiting outside the National Treasury Museum</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Two museums:</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> National Museum. Many pots, figurines and a few statues from pre-Islamic Persia. Most gruesome award: a severed head found in a salt mine. Most interesting: a clay cylinder on loan from the British Museum, that has carved on its surface, the first declaration of human rights known to history (585 BC - aka the CYlinder of Cyrus). My favourite: a tiny head with sunken cheeks and deep eyes carved in ivory, which was then burned in a fire - rendering the head black, stark and moving. A face trapped in fire, several thousand years old.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> National treasury. Ridiculous. The Persian Crown jewels make the English Crown Jewels look like a toy store. I saw the biggest pink diamond in the world (182 carats), plus insanely jewel-encrusted swords, necklaces, brooches, crowns, egg cups (cause who wouldn't want to eat eggs from rubies?), and, yes, a diamond-encrusted umbrella (given to a Persian empress from Catherine, Queen of Russia). All this - like the oil Iran now has - in a place unable to feed its citzenry.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PB0odaeNHvxYQOmibzvPTV9G8rluxWLFPudPgPN8DKVexATt2a18XcYfz8L83v60ErAI6ynF92YgPEZc_6VYajNcfUyBvpImtZB7JJnUaS2vW1SNR8Cebpai33k59a8gcUoJ2CG4HVKH/s1600/IMG_1387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6PB0odaeNHvxYQOmibzvPTV9G8rluxWLFPudPgPN8DKVexATt2a18XcYfz8L83v60ErAI6ynF92YgPEZc_6VYajNcfUyBvpImtZB7JJnUaS2vW1SNR8Cebpai33k59a8gcUoJ2CG4HVKH/s320/IMG_1387.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">City Theatre, Tehran</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Two shows:</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div></div></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> A text-driven piece about an Afghan farmer who marries and Iranian woman, and they lose a son to a landmine, then run afoul of the Iranian immigration police. They end up living in no-man's land between the two countries. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> A playwright/director/auteur/symbolism-driven piece about a twin who surveys a fire, his mother, and his fiance. Which twin IS he? Why is he dying NOW? Why won't he get in the bathtub full of BLOOD? The set boasted a beautiful black tile floor - my favourite part of the show. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Also met a brace of foreigners today, including fellow cannucks Michael Green (from Calgary) and Heather Redfern (from Vancouver). </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Oh, and I learned, 24 hours late, about Mubarek stepping down in Egypt. This happened while i was in transit yesterday. Strangely, no one is talking about it here. Yet we've been warned that we might want to leave our hotel early on Monday, so as not be cut off from the theatres by the demonstration. I am very curious to see what happens...</span></span><br />
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</span></span></div></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-56248226539659094072011-02-12T04:07:00.000-08:002011-02-26T16:33:36.786-08:00Photos<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I am adding a few photos to see if they a visible outside of Iran. Are they?</span></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXWECKSJj6SQovBBQnNSXKybJZ1taYuC9aRaG3VgHxq2CBmqEL8geDq8pCOCYXVfUVd3D9c-yaNbQ48XVbMJ1whRSrMnzc7uw0AoCJmw-7oJMbZ3YePgnnq7Nwogj4dHjUyZsc6XM8lUM/s1600/IMG_1315.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXWECKSJj6SQovBBQnNSXKybJZ1taYuC9aRaG3VgHxq2CBmqEL8geDq8pCOCYXVfUVd3D9c-yaNbQ48XVbMJ1whRSrMnzc7uw0AoCJmw-7oJMbZ3YePgnnq7Nwogj4dHjUyZsc6XM8lUM/s1600/IMG_1315.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5TkOWgeylVw1WJ2rashD8X1B0bL_gxmKzpmtJHDJwTHpzgSHmHseNdJtWXjqvJufLfnpuyDoF8-FFrqOKUPI-sd3f3MsUuTHtnt0v0pNSXDLJnXVdJr-EHYRNfytUEwuuoZrv4k3xEQM/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5TkOWgeylVw1WJ2rashD8X1B0bL_gxmKzpmtJHDJwTHpzgSHmHseNdJtWXjqvJufLfnpuyDoF8-FFrqOKUPI-sd3f3MsUuTHtnt0v0pNSXDLJnXVdJr-EHYRNfytUEwuuoZrv4k3xEQM/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUFZh0i9-bZLaKT8tr6ebk8IqoN7d_wjmkBVJWRK-tBMasHZokJUEHDjYPZvj_vdWiyIyIOZvKkvPPK3JYcnHDSxI6HvHSOGSqM0I5O8OPmu2mIDh3Mxs7cGWjpuPywifiBIAk_bCvnfT/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUFZh0i9-bZLaKT8tr6ebk8IqoN7d_wjmkBVJWRK-tBMasHZokJUEHDjYPZvj_vdWiyIyIOZvKkvPPK3JYcnHDSxI6HvHSOGSqM0I5O8OPmu2mIDh3Mxs7cGWjpuPywifiBIAk_bCvnfT/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-77017306772033525272011-02-12T02:18:00.000-08:002011-02-27T06:41:26.587-08:00Shambeh (Saturday)<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMp0k4S9twGGBWny4NJ0MQoT5-2pik1sPaLojpylygi7RiDjKSxYI3KUkpCauIMDeUYBQ5qpL37ncFgxZsYfzzVoss2meazO3H-WJC8CvLdyudbbNx570PJN-VxWoAY_3fh8Bp2xC7Fej/s1600/IMG_1372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMp0k4S9twGGBWny4NJ0MQoT5-2pik1sPaLojpylygi7RiDjKSxYI3KUkpCauIMDeUYBQ5qpL37ncFgxZsYfzzVoss2meazO3H-WJC8CvLdyudbbNx570PJN-VxWoAY_3fh8Bp2xC7Fej/s320/IMG_1372.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Ok. This is interesting. The internet in the hotel has been off, and will be off again, due to the opposition demonstration planned for Monday. I have a window of a few hours right now. I have been warned that all cell phones will likely also stop working. I also am able to post to my blog, but am unable to read it online - it is blocked by some sort of filter. So I will be blogging blind, if at all...</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Welcome to Iran.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">In other news - i'm having a terrific day, so far. I met two of my fellow jurors - Andrea (from Italy, a critic), and Lampros (from Greece, a musicologist). Andrea is here with his wife (or girlfriend), Daniele (who is finishing a PhD in Theatre at Sienna). And Nasim - our translator / guide, and a friend of Daniel Brooks - who, incidentally, is responsible for me being here. Nasim is terrific. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Today we see museums. And then a couple of plays. It is a strange place...</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB45RgCYXn_CIA4fNqvr02jGDyIPh27uvjlQtX3cGX1l1Ptml-z-fdSaswjsTyz03RGIlFtci0qWFRRwpyFU_67m2j1YF4I8-Gk8k8xiC8BQNpNL2uHYFPdGyw_86uf5Y65Ah8O1NVl7Hm/s1600/IMG_1367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB45RgCYXn_CIA4fNqvr02jGDyIPh27uvjlQtX3cGX1l1Ptml-z-fdSaswjsTyz03RGIlFtci0qWFRRwpyFU_67m2j1YF4I8-Gk8k8xiC8BQNpNL2uHYFPdGyw_86uf5Y65Ah8O1NVl7Hm/s320/IMG_1367.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vdwxIc1vnM5AOr8f00t_93WpcfHw7_3f5e4wFlE_KI7bpXUrB3fTEsqvkw0jldOBKM0vtAkWgH0ZTrxSJqqdPCwpqPe6XOW6X5NqJPxOz6BCSrEKBPNH4RlTwRqQ_FAX0UDJI9L0PZ3P/s1600/IMG_1358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5vdwxIc1vnM5AOr8f00t_93WpcfHw7_3f5e4wFlE_KI7bpXUrB3fTEsqvkw0jldOBKM0vtAkWgH0ZTrxSJqqdPCwpqPe6XOW6X5NqJPxOz6BCSrEKBPNH4RlTwRqQ_FAX0UDJI9L0PZ3P/s320/IMG_1358.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-85691606376003443712011-02-12T02:04:00.000-08:002011-02-27T06:35:31.900-08:00Arrival in Iran<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6cYJMYDr5N_0P8f6BNSHfCdST2eeKXXBNWqwT0VODeRil1EeVDGKEd-Y5fOIEt0uX7cmwrqKkO1jUnpdaQBoqTvFrTHUtYO1JfxfcLkTi9EIcAFNN3cDPnqquDaNwvs6NDaeIc2jtEIcw/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6cYJMYDr5N_0P8f6BNSHfCdST2eeKXXBNWqwT0VODeRil1EeVDGKEd-Y5fOIEt0uX7cmwrqKkO1jUnpdaQBoqTvFrTHUtYO1JfxfcLkTi9EIcAFNN3cDPnqquDaNwvs6NDaeIc2jtEIcw/s320/IMG_1342.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6cYJMYDr5N_0P8f6BNSHfCdST2eeKXXBNWqwT0VODeRil1EeVDGKEd-Y5fOIEt0uX7cmwrqKkO1jUnpdaQBoqTvFrTHUtYO1JfxfcLkTi9EIcAFNN3cDPnqquDaNwvs6NDaeIc2jtEIcw/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span>The things i recall, from airport to hotel:</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The Lufthansa stewardess i talk to has never been to Iran before, either. The flight crew will stay one night in a hotel. They have the floor to themselves, so the women don't have to wear headscarves.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The airport is modern - soaring glass and steel. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The line up for passport control is long, but I am processed easily and quickly. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4) </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The man who meets me is pleasant, moustached and older. He smokes as soon as he gets outside. He offers me one first. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Outside, the air is polluted. Smog is visible in the electric gleam of the modern airport (Imam Khomeini International).</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">6)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> My greeter is mostly on his cell phone. We exchange a few words, and he puts me in a taxi. He must wait for more international guests - from Estonia, i think.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">7)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I try out my Farsi on the cab driver. I tell him i speak no Farsi. He smiles. He speaks no English.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">8)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I think about the places i've been where i have had no frame of reference. The only one that comes close is Uganda, when i first arrived there. Here, the feeling of alertness is similar, as is the lack of any codebook to read what I see, but the terrain and the smells are utterly different. Africa was verdant, humid, fresh smelling. Iran, at least at night, seems desolate. A modern highway through a flat, dry land. Lights flickering by, haloed by smog.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">9)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> And an electric palm tree made of orange light.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">10)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> And two men dressed in dark clothes on the highway on a motorcycle with no back light.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">11)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> And billboards floating by - advertising in arabic script, lit with extremely bright lights. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">12)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> And, gradually appearing as we approach the city, buildings - buildings that are boxy and stained in pollution. At least on the outskirts. As if the whole city was built in 1965, and never washed.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">13)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> An enormous, seemingly deserted prison (?). An old police helicopter anchored to a small building - the entrance to a museum? Russian and Japanese and French built cars.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">14)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The streets are deserted - it is almost 3am, the day after the national holiday commemorating the Islamic revolution. But I do see two men - first one, and five minutes later another - in fluorescent city-worker suits sweeping the sidewalks with huge handmade (i think) brooms. They look like witches' brooms, and dwarf the men using them. The city is stained, but the sidewalks are free of litter.</span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">15)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Ferdossi Grand Hotel. An oasis of light and cleanliness, in the pollution-stained street. I check in. The internet is down. I will need to wait to post this. My room has a king-sized bed, but also looks like it was decorated in 1965. Everything is clean, somewhat dilapidated and orange, brown, red and gold. I try to sleep. Tomorrow evening, I will begin seeing shows. What happens to me before that, I have no idea. I assume someone from the festival has a plan for me. But no one tells me anything. All will be well, Inshallah. </span></span></div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-84962618801742417912011-02-11T07:56:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:36:24.987-08:00The Trip<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFuAFR_aKdTIS-QuGXjliOBPlIEHkZa0B1pVLNnd9Po-UXz8UtdQ513P6Ti79oujfE5q-_03UmwDcDuxqrritahDaXkkboZso-l7xZSwYzaynriINTm1CNHrNIYdBZfXXnhh9U14GNkWUX/s1600/IMG_1297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFuAFR_aKdTIS-QuGXjliOBPlIEHkZa0B1pVLNnd9Po-UXz8UtdQ513P6Ti79oujfE5q-_03UmwDcDuxqrritahDaXkkboZso-l7xZSwYzaynriINTm1CNHrNIYdBZfXXnhh9U14GNkWUX/s320/IMG_1297.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></span></span> </span> </div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> St. John's Airport</span></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> I leave the house where I'm staying in St. John's at 10:30am for a noon flight to Toronto, and say goodbye to my wonderful gal, Neema.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> 8 hour wait in Toronto.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Fly to Frankfurt. Sleep whole flight.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> 6 hour wait in Frankfurt - where I am now.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">5)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> flight to Tehran is almost 5 hours</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So that's about 30 hours of travel. Nervous. Excited. Buoyed by a flood of well-wishers on Facebook I discover in Frankfurt. Concerned by all the news I'm reading about the sentencing of Iranian filmmakers Jafar Pahani and Mohammad Rasoulov. Intrigued by an email from an Iranian theatre-maker:</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"We did not have any theater in our small town (Abyek) till 4 years. And now we are here, young and eager to move and grow."</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">As are we all. Well, maybe not young... Some images of transit:</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPWiW8BB7Nje8HRT2DmJU3NKUOLkOlScbRq24zBdIizny-BgK9BJbFkFXOMRZK9QUwVkkIhNwnz5soGUlikZ9keZvskDzINFa9hVzdNmCW19MdgXD1g72V5fj-XyqzvwxbzQ0YN9skbpw/s1600/IMG_1300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguPWiW8BB7Nje8HRT2DmJU3NKUOLkOlScbRq24zBdIizny-BgK9BJbFkFXOMRZK9QUwVkkIhNwnz5soGUlikZ9keZvskDzINFa9hVzdNmCW19MdgXD1g72V5fj-XyqzvwxbzQ0YN9skbpw/s320/IMG_1300.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A deer and a bunny, trapped in the revolving door at the St. John's airport. Poor darlins, wha?</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-FsxwbIFDZO93dkJ1fnlUX_Q5FWNJ9bcdQi-0N8USfor4hLuv1qoCWdGpaD0C3A2tBO7IU7gZ-5MWDXAaTihCwq7jDQKH__SiKbg1CXSvKN4iXwgJ82oQ76sjJ9SdPdEZqgOuWmnJJKP/s1600/IMG_1308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP-FsxwbIFDZO93dkJ1fnlUX_Q5FWNJ9bcdQi-0N8USfor4hLuv1qoCWdGpaD0C3A2tBO7IU7gZ-5MWDXAaTihCwq7jDQKH__SiKbg1CXSvKN4iXwgJ82oQ76sjJ9SdPdEZqgOuWmnJJKP/s320/IMG_1308.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">A bevy of Etihad flight attendants at Toronto Pearson</span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJu0i_sKyqvosrYRgrLzwMIzwdRanCEABBVZdw8Zg5FVNqXm73UbFwmsTCvoo9gY90Z-mZTmSFsYg6zwQTS5EHMJCgexmIEzqo9jou3Oz8hdnO8zQhehbt7a95XWBUpNknfwSAPBvuCoq/s1600/IMG_1311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJu0i_sKyqvosrYRgrLzwMIzwdRanCEABBVZdw8Zg5FVNqXm73UbFwmsTCvoo9gY90Z-mZTmSFsYg6zwQTS5EHMJCgexmIEzqo9jou3Oz8hdnO8zQhehbt7a95XWBUpNknfwSAPBvuCoq/s320/IMG_1311.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> Thai Jumbo, Frankfurt</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MEtyZu_snBYoznBZ3rmtHqOEnKUyvd-DPnJXrT8v5bI9nwmlbGZzBH6-B8dtA-f0-EJSdnhx7jBGuaQ_QyF3xLjGa4SUZ7-Bv2ort6YNm2AjByqphOwl2ePS9e6c7BzBGeIWZ09g396v/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MEtyZu_snBYoznBZ3rmtHqOEnKUyvd-DPnJXrT8v5bI9nwmlbGZzBH6-B8dtA-f0-EJSdnhx7jBGuaQ_QyF3xLjGa4SUZ7-Bv2ort6YNm2AjByqphOwl2ePS9e6c7BzBGeIWZ09g396v/s320/IMG_1312.JPG" width="320" /></span></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Lufthansa Fins, Frankfurt</span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Next stop: Tehran.</span>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6603866052756115611.post-38504741074385265312011-02-09T14:51:00.000-08:002011-02-27T07:36:02.106-08:00The Eve of Departure<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDquh1B1pZyrq7crrv3WO0nONFNf8q4E98yifYPDTWeCWzrMBJm22O2fXPsT-Gji54oG2ZBdOuhH_7HmLbJsUyg9yDG_FCzoSHaBL656Y1MudVGDJYFQwJbOOgEWJqHdDTtCe6SEs0-Ac6/s1600/IMG_1206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDquh1B1pZyrq7crrv3WO0nONFNf8q4E98yifYPDTWeCWzrMBJm22O2fXPsT-Gji54oG2ZBdOuhH_7HmLbJsUyg9yDG_FCzoSHaBL656Y1MudVGDJYFQwJbOOgEWJqHdDTtCe6SEs0-Ac6/s320/IMG_1206.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">The day before the trip. St. John's, Nfld.</span></span></span></span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDquh1B1pZyrq7crrv3WO0nONFNf8q4E98yifYPDTWeCWzrMBJm22O2fXPsT-Gji54oG2ZBdOuhH_7HmLbJsUyg9yDG_FCzoSHaBL656Y1MudVGDJYFQwJbOOgEWJqHdDTtCe6SEs0-Ac6/s1600/IMG_1206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span></span>Tomorrow i travel to Iran, and the 29th Fadjr International Theatre Festival. My starting point is St. John's Newfoundland - where I am, at the moment, about to see the opening of Oil and Water, an Artistic Fraud show that has garnered much anticipation, nationally. Some thoughts on the eve of departure:</span><br />
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<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">1)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> It's tough getting information out of the festival: it's been a litany of missed communication, and unanswered questions. An airline ticket with the wrong dates was bought for me, and a new one finally arrived this morning - the day before I travel. Nerve wracking.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The festival is enormous. I will be seeing only a small part of it - the shows that make up the International Competition - 19 productions from six countries (Iran, Italy, Germany, Estonia, Czech Republic and South Korea). There are many shows NOT in this competition - both Persian and International (including a Peter Stein show, a Romeo Castelluci show, and an opera from Beijing - none of which I will be able to see, sadly).</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">3)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> The politics are complicated. From what I can gather, Iran is a place of factions. Today, a permit to demonstrate was denied the opposition, who wanted to honour (and build upon?) the recent demonstrations in Tunisia and Egypt. It was to begin near my hotel on Monday, Feb 14. We'll see if anything materializes, despite the ban. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">4)</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> Some Iranian artists have already contacted me by email, hoping to meet, and persuade me to see their shows. In that sense, it is like Edinburgh (for example). But with the proviso that these artists rarely get to meet international practitioners. Just as I rarely get to meet Iranian theatre artists. I look forward to this exchange, and have no real idea of what will happen, nor what lies ahead...</span><br />
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</div>Ross Mansonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02580699522074721667noreply@blogger.com0